Argentina: Great cuisine and wine

Argentine Cuisine is complex, with two major influences  being cultural and agricultural. Culturally, Argentine cuisine has been largely influenced by Spanish, Italian, French and other European countries. Northwest Argentina however has been influenced by Andean Cuisine. Since Argentina is one of the world's major food producers of meat (beef), wheat, corn, milk, and beans, this has influenced its cuisine. Another major impact on Argentine Cuisine is the fact that Argentina is one the largest producers of some of the best wines in the world. Wikipedia describes Argentine Cuisine as having four broad regions:

1. Central Region (provinces of Buenos Aires, Córdoba, Santa Fe and part of San Luis and the city of Buenos Aires) and Las Pampas,
2. Northwest Region (provinces of Catamarca, Jujuy, Salt, Santiago del Estero and Tucumán),
3. Cuyo Region (name given to central west Argentina provinces of Mendoza, San Juan and Salta) and
4. Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego Regions.

Argentina is the seventh largest country in the world. We were fortunate during our Las Américas trip to spend four months in Argentina. While four months is not enough to explore the cuisine of such a large country in depth, I did visit all four culinary regions and the major wine provinces within Argentina.

Cafayate's great wineries and restaurants © Spaswinefood

Spaswinefood earlier postings on the Argentine wine regions: Mendoza Province, San Juan Province, Salta Province (Cafayte) and Patagonia (Neuquen Province) include:

1. Mendoza Province
2. Cafayate, Salta Province
3. Neuquén Province
4. San Juan Province

Spaswinefood has also posted on culinary experiences in Buenos Aires, Greater Buenos Aires, Bariloche and Argentina: Great Trout and Wine. This post will therefore be on other culinary experiences throughout the country. I will describe those experiences under south and north of Bariloche.

South of Bariloche: Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego

Our experiences from Bariloche to Ushuaia took us through Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. From Bariloche we began the long drive south on Ruta 40.  Our travels south took us to Epuyen (Hosteria Del Lago), Parque Nacional Los Alerces (camped), Gobernador Costa (Hotel Roca), Telken Estancia (camped), La Angostura Estancia (camped), and El Calafate (Los Dos Pinos Cabanas) where we spent New Years and visted Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. I will now highlight a few culinary experiences.

Hosteria del Lago, Epuyen

Are we awake yet . . . .  it is breakfast time!! © Spaswinefood

Esquel

Hamburgers for Karla and Gary © Spaswinefood

Driving south we got to see a number of estancias along the route. We did manage to visit two, Telken Estancia and Estancia La Angostura.

Estancia La Angostura

Breakfast at Estancia La Angostura © Spaswinefood

Usually an Argentine breakfast includes coffee, juice and a bread or bun of some sort. For breakfast that morning however, I remember having some great calafate jam. The name calafate comes from a small berry-bearing bush found in southern Patagonia. Legend has it whoever eats calafate jam will return for more. I need to return soon. 

Then it was onto Chilean Patagonia (Parque Nacional Torres Del Paine and Punta Arenas). We crossed into Tierra Del Feugo via ferry from Punta Arenas, Chile to Provenir, Chile. Then after a short drive (100km) on ripio (gravel road) we crossed back into Argentina. 

Ruta 3 took us to Rio Grande (Refugio Camping Club Nautica) where we meet lots of enthusiastic travelers (on bikes, kayaks, etc.). Next day, we reached our final destination Ushuaia (camped at Pisto Club Andino). This completed our Deadhorse, Alaska to Tierra Del Fuego Journey. 

Club Nautica, Rio Grande

Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego

Given that Ushuaia is the port for all the Antarctica ships, Ushuaia has lots of great restaurants.

Bife choriso © Spaswinefood

Throughout Argentina I was always able order wonderful squash © Spaswinefood

Pasta © Spaswinefood

After a few days in Ushuaia we began our return north to Bariloche.

North of Bariloche: Mendoza, San Juan, Salta, JuJuy and Santiago del Estero Provinces

On Jan 21, 2010 we left Bariloche and headed north again on scenic Ruta 40 towards Mendoza. Enroute to Mendoza Province we stopped at Junin de Los Andes (camped at Laura Vacuna), Choas Malal (Muncipal Campground) and Valle Grande, near San Rafael (Camping Los Sauces). 

Instead of stopping first in Mendoza we headed first to San Juan wine region In San Juan we stayed Hotel Alkazar and Apart Hotel Rocio. From San Juan it was onto Barreal (Posada Don Eduardo) and Pismanta (Hotel Termas de Pismanta). 

Barreal, Posada Don Eduardo

Posada Don Eduardo © Spaswinefood

Breakfast at Posada Don Eduardo © Spaswinefood

Two great dogs © Spaswinefood

Dinning room at Posada Don Eduardo © Spaswinefood

Lunch at Sylvia's in Barreal

We start lunch with some great Argentine wine © Spaswinefood

We left Barreal and headed to Pismanta (Hotel Termas de Pismanta). This hot springs and spa resort is a great stop.

Wine with dinner at Hotel Termas de Pismanta © Spaswinefood

Mendoza

Later we went to Mendoza (Sheraton Mendoza: Pet Friendly) to visit some of its Viñas. Highlights from Mendoza province were included in Spaswinefood posts on Mendoza and Ruca Malen.

One of the wonderful Mendoza restaurants © Spaswinefood

Ruca Malen is a must visit © Spaswinefood

After Mendoza we took a quick trip to Chile, via Portillo Pass (Ruta 7) through the Andes. 

Tibet Bar in Uspallata made famous by Brad Pitt's movie © Spaswinefood

Ski Resort near Portillo Pass © Spaswinefood

After a quick trip to Chile we returned to Aparthotel Rocio in San Juan. San Juan is a very friendly city to explore. 

Only order one salad - in Argentina salads tend to be a meal in itself © Spaswinefood

This pasta was quite tasty © Spaswinefood

Costillas (beef ribs) © Spaswinefood

After San Juan we headed north again on Ruta 40 stopping at San Augustin de Valle Fertil (Camping Valle Fertil), Rioja (Camping Los Pinos), Belen (Camping).

Provinces of Catamarca, Salta, JuJuy, Santiago del Estero

The drive through Catamarca, Salta and JuJuy Provinces was a totally awesome experience with colorful grandiose landscape. We enjoyed discovering Cafayate Wine Region (Camping Rio Colorado). 

Many Argentine restaurants have bread with sauces,  as an appetizer © Spaswinefood

Argentine Empanadas, La Casa de Las Empanadas, Cafayate

Cafayate is one of the best places in Argentina to taste wines.

After a wonderful weekend in Cafayte it was onto Molinos where we stopped for lunch. 

Eggplant for Lunch, Molinos restaurant © Spaswinefood

After a relaxing lunch in Molinos we took another ripio detour to visit Finca Colomé  Bodega and its eco-hotel (five green stars) to sample its wines. 

Eco-hotel Colomé © Spaswinefood

Wine tasting at Colomé is special © Spaswinefood

Antipasto © Spaswinefood

Salad © Spaswinefood

After visiting Colomé we decided to camp in the beautiful desert nearby. The desert in this area is awesome. We should have stayed longer.

Torrontés and Chocolate © Spaswinefood

From Colomé it was onto Cachi (Camping Municipal) and Salta (Hotel La Beltraneja - pet friendly and wonderful staff). We found Salta to be an enjoyable, relaxing city to visit.

More bife © Spaswinefood

Baked squash and salad © Spaswinefood

Pasta © Spaswinefood

Chicken kibob © Spaswinefood

Pasta with mushroom sauce © Spaswinefood

From Salta we drove north on Ruta 9 to JuJuy; then onto Ruta 52 to Puna de Jama. We stopped at Pastos Chicos (camped) and Purmamarca (Hosteria Bebo Vilte). Later we retraced our journey to return to Salta (Hotel La Beltraneja) where we continued to explore what Salta has to offer. We loved Salta.

Siete Colores © Spaswinefood

Torta © Spaswinefood

After leaving Salta our travels next took us through Santiago del Estero (stopping only in Cuidad de Loreto, Hotel Ruta 9) and then onto Cordoba Province.

Cordoba, La Pampa and Patagonia (Neuquen)

Codoba Province was delightful. We visited first Cordoba (Aparhotel Bari – pet friendly). Cordoba had a big city feel; so, fortunately, we also explored the beautiful sierra towns of La Cumbre (Camping El Paso), Villa Carlos Pas (ACA Camping) and Embalse (Camping).

Realizing that our time in South America was getting shorter, we decided to head south towards Lake District via La Pampa. La Pampa is close to the stereotypical image most have of Argentina – grasslands, pampas grass, cattle herding, etc.. Our journey through La Pampa took us to General Acha (Hotel Patagonia), Parque Nacional Lihuel Calel (camping).

In Neuquen we stopped at Añelo (Hotel Sol de Añelo), Villa de La Angostura (Camping Cullumche and Camping Uniquehue). While traveling through Neuquen Wine Region we visited the Familia Schroeder Viña. It was great to be back in the lake distict. We spent four idyllic days in Villa de La Angostura. Leaving Villa de La Angosturia we traveled through an area know as Seite Lagos (seven lakes) where we camped at Camping Lago Falkner. We took a break  from the road at San Martin de Los Andes (Villa Pirén and Cabañas Ensueno) before heading to Junin de Los Andes where we would cross back into the Chilean Lake District.

Bodega Schroeder Saurus label © Spaswinefood

Some travel books say it is hard for a vegetarian to travel in Argentina I totally disagree. Argentine restaurants prepare lots of vegetable side dishes (squash, mushrooms, etc.) to go with all that meat. I just ordered lots of great vegetables. They also make some of the best pastas in the world.  Many of their freshly made pastas do not have meat in them, and since you select the sauce for your pasta it is no problem to select a vegetarian option. The meatless empanadas are excellent and so are the pizzas. The salads are also quite good. No matter where I traveled in Argentina I got use to reading menus and asking for slight modifications. I have found that the restaurants were happy to do so.

Of course non-vegetarians will totally enjoy Argentine Cuisine. Go Green Travel Green did a post on 17 Argentine Foods. I miss the wonderful Argentine wines, freshly prepared food, bakeries on every corner and the overall culinary charm of Argentina. Oh yes, I should not forget to mention that I got to share a "mate".

Sharon

Tasting Memories from the Las Américas Trip

2011

©Spaswinefood