Bodega Graffigna, San Juan Argentina: Yes, we drove there

If your wine travels take you to Argentina Bodega Graffigna (Graffigna Winery) in San Juan Province is well worth a visit. Argentina, one of South America’s best-known wine countries is also known for its wine tourism.  Yet, whenever I mention Argentine wine the response always includes Mendoza and Malbec.  However, less known perhaps is that San Juan Province is the second largest producer wine in Argentina.

Anxious to know more about Argentine wine we began our wine adventure not in Mendoza but in San Juan. While San Juan Province is more modest about its accomplishments in the wine industry than Mendoza it is now starting to get attention. San Juan's Ruta del Vino (Wine Route) includes the valleys of Ullum, Tulum and Zonda surrounding the capital city of San Juan. Here you will find wine bodegas that are well worth visiting. There are also other promising areas throughout San Juan Province, such as Valle de Pedernal. San Juan Province is best known for its Syrah, Bonarda, Cabernet Sauvignon, sherry style wines, brandies and Vermouth. Karin-Marijke Vis article describes a visit to San Juan Province wineries.

Bodega Graffigna San Juan, Argentina © Spaswinefood

San Juan is about a two-hour drive north of the city of Mendoza. It was quite hot (our SUV was showing outside temperatures in the 100ºF plus range) when we drove to San Juan. We had read that the wineries in San Juan were friendly and less touristy than Mendoza. Another reason to begin our wine exploration there. Despite the high temperatures we still decided to visit the wineries. We did make one compensation however rather than drive around ourselves in the heat looking for the wineries we hired a taxi driver to take us around. This was a good decision because the guy was great. The owner of El Rocio, the apartment hotel where we stayed suggested him. Gosh, I think he knew our Spanish accent was not Argentine.

Bodegas y Viñedos Santiago Graffigna

The San Juan winery that is most interesting in terms of tradition and size is Bodega Graffigna. Bodega Graffigna established in 1870, is the best known winery in San Juan Province. Its museum, Museo Santiago Graffigna provides a one hour guided tour, which focuses on the history of wine making in San Juan Province. The winery has two wines series (Centenario and Grand Reserve). The Centenario includes Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio, with its Grand reserve being Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. The Bodega Graffigna reds we tasted during our visit were quite good (see awards). They age their premium wines for 12 months in either French or American oak barrels. We did buy several bottles of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. We now look for the Graffigna label when buying Argentine wine.

Bodega Graffigna San Juan, Argentina © Spaswinefood

Wine Tasting, Bodega Graffigna © Spaswinefood

French Oak Barrel,  Bodega Graffigna © Spaswinefood

American Oak Barrel, Bodega Graffigna © Spaswinefood

Buying red wines, Bodega Graffigna © Spaswinefood 

See Bodega Graffigna reviews at Snooth, Tripadvisor and specific wine reviews at NapaCabs and Mano A Vino Eat, Drink, Write. Needless to say, wherever there is good wine so there is also good food. While in San Juan we took advantage of checking out several of its restaurants.

Enjoying  dinner with a good bottle of Graffigna © Spaswinefood

Graffigna Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2007 © Spaswinefood

Whenever we visit a wine shop and walk through the Argentina wine section we always keep our eyes open for Graffigna wines. Often while strolling through the section quite often a sales person asks would you like some information on the wines. When we say we have been to the winery. In fact, we drove there they usually do not know quite how to respond, or worse continue with their sales pitch.

As part of our Las Américas trip we were most fortunate to visit more of San Juan and then later Mendoza,  Salta and Neuquén wine producing provinces. This allowed us to do extensive wine tasting throughout Argentina.  In general, Argentine wines are quite good, and would measure up to any in California.  In fact, they would do quite well against any wines in the world. I invite you to join me in my travels in Argentina and elsewhere in search of the best in Spaswinefood. 

Sharon

July 2012

© Spaswinefood

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