It was a hot Argentine summer's day when we visited Bodegas La Guardia (La Guardia Winery) in San Juan Province. San Juan is about a two-hour drive north of the city of Mendoza, Argentina, which is well known for its wine tourism. San Juan Province, the second largest wine producer is more modest about its accomplishments in the wine industry than Mendoza. We had read that the wineries in San Juan were friendly and less touristy; so despite the high temperatures we still decided to visit Bodega La Guardia.
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Bodegas La Guarda © Spaswinefood
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Bodegas La Guardia
Bodegas La Guardia is a winery with an interesting history. Their vineyards are located at the foothills of the Andes in the Tullum, Zonda and Pedernal Valleys. They produce an interesting variety of wines. The reds include Malbec, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Bonarda; the whites include Chardonnay, Torrontés and Viognier.
Our hostess offered us four different red wines and two whites to taste. This was our first time tasting Bonarda. According to our winery hostess, Bonarda is unique to Argentina. We found Bonarda to be a very smooth, fruity wine. Throughout our Argentine wine travels we tried Bonarda at a number of bodegas.
Bodegas La Guardia also offers a tour. While on the tour we discovered that the winery also produces some vino patero mostly for local consumption. However, our hostess told us that some is shipped to Argentines abroad as well. The wine comes in five liter bottles.
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Wine tasting at Bodegas La Guarda © Spaswinefood
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Examining a Bodegas La Guarda Bonarda © Spaswinefood
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Bodegas La Guardia also offers a tour. While on the tour we discovered that the winery also produces some vino patero mostly for local consumption. However, our hostess told us that some is shipped to Argentines abroad as well. The wine comes in five liter bottles.
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Vino Patero produced by Bodegas La Guarda © Spaswinefood
Later while dining at Ristorante Le Pietre Cavate in Milan Italy we ordered a 2009 Bonarda DOC Conti di Gambarana wine. We had liked Bonarda wines in Argentina and so why not try one in Italy. We discovered that the Bonarda we ordered was fizzante (sparkling red wine). It was not the one we were familiar with in Argentina. What I have since discovered is that Bonarda is the second most popular grape in Argentina. Bonarda was once the most popular wine but lost its position due to the focus on Malbec and Torrontés. I have also discovered that Bonarda is a name applied to a variety of red wines. In Argentina the wine comes from Charbono of California grape. This grape has Italian origins, brought to Argentina by Italian immigrants. Whereas the Bonarda we tried in Italy is Bonarda Oltrepo' Pavese, which is a light, fruity sparkling wine.
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Ristorante Le Pietre Cavate, Via Castervetro © Spaswinefood
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2009 Bonarda Oltrepo Pavese DOC - Conti di Gambarana © Spaswinefood
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There has been discussion of the origin and future of Bonarda. Good Cheap Vino notes that Argentine Bonarda is not well known outside Argentina. i-Wine Review Blog discusses the origin, style and future of Bonarda. Spin the Bottle discussed the use of the Bonarda to describe wines in Italy and Argentina. Vinisur recently posed the the question: Is Bonarda is the new 100% Argentine star? I think this is a great question.
We loved the friendliness of the city of San Juan. You will find online information, which is quite useful for planning a wine tour, locating accommodation and other services in San Juan. San Juan Province's wineries have gotten attention in recent years. The valleys of Ullum, Tulum and Zonda surrounding the capital city of San Juan have some interesting bodegas that are worth visiting. There are also other promising areas throughout the province, such as Valle de Pedernal that are most likely to gain in popularity in the future. Other than Bonarda San Juan Province is known for its Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon; its sherry style wines, brandies and Vermouth.We had no problems finding great food in San Juan. We also visited a day spa down the street from our hotel apartment, Rocio.
During our Las Américas trip we were most fortunate to visit Mendoza, San Juan, Salta and Neuquén wine producing provinces. This allowed us to do extensive wine tasting throughout Argentina. In general, the wines are quite good, and would measure up to any in California. In fact, they would do quite well against any wines in the world. I invite you to join me in my travels in Argentina and elsewhere in search of the best in Spaswinefood. You may also visit my travel column at the Examiner.
Sharon
July 2012
© Spaswinefood
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