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Saturday, June 15, 2013

Memories of Turkey's Kavaklidere Wines

Spaswinefood has great memories of Turkey. Memories of discovering some of the best of Turkey's wines. Before our visit to Turkey I remember reading Tom Brosnahan's travel website, which gives an overview of Turkish wine regions. I also remember him noting that two vineyards, namely Kavaklidere and Doluca vineyards in mid 1900's, help set the standards for Turkish wine. During our visit to Turkey last fall I saw lots of evidence that this was the case. Still it was not until #EWBC12 conference that I tasted some of the best of Kavaklidere wines.
Wine #1 Kavaklidere (top left), Narince Chardonnay 2011 © Spaswinefood
Tasting Kavaklidere Wine at the Gala Banquet
As we traveled throughout Turkey scribbled in my notes of Turkish wines to taste was Kavaklidere wines. Finally, Kavaklidere wines were on the list of wines to be tasted at the Gala Banquet at the Swissotel Grand Efes, Izmir. One of the courses on the banquet menu was Crispy Duck. The Crispy Duck was paired with the following two wines:
1) Suvla's SUR 2010 (a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot), and
2) Kavaklidere's Prestige Öküzgözü 2009 from Öküzgözü, Elaziğ.
Crispy Duck © Spaswinefood
Kavaklidere's Prestige Öküzgözü 2009 was an excellent choice. The Prestige Öküzgözü 2009 was included in a side-by-side tasting with Suvla's SUR 2010 (a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot). Both of these wines are excellent wines. While in Turkey it was exciting for me to taste red wines made from the indigenous grape variety Öküzgözü. Other Turkish wineries featured at the Gala Banquet that evening included Doluca WineryKayra WineryLA WinesPamukkale Winery, Selendi Winery, Sevilan WinerySuvla WineryYazgan Winery and Vinkara Winery.

Tasting Kavaklidere Wine at the Grand Terroir Tasting
A Kavaklidere wine was one of the two Turkish wines featured as part of the Grand Terroir Tasting at #EWBC12. It was a Kavaklidere, Narince Chardonnay 2011.
The Grand Terroir Wine Tasting at #EWBC © Spaswinefood
Grand Terroir Tasting Sheet © Spaswinefood

During the Grand Terroir tasting the impressive wine lineup included the following list:
The Grand Terroir Tasting lead by Atkins and Metcalfe © Spaswinefood
What the wines from the Eastern Mediterranean have in common is a rich wine history and unique geogaphy, or in essence a Grand Terroir In fact Turkey can be described as the "Heart of the Grand Terroir". Southeastern Anatolia grape origins date back to 9000BC. There are 800 genetically identified indigenous grapes known from Turkey. The Turkish wine industry has undergone rebirth in the last 20 years. The rebirth of Turkey's wine industry includes wines made from indigenous and international grapes. Two Turkish wines selected for the Grand Terroir tasting were:
 1) Kavaklidere, Narince Chardonnay 2011 (wine #1 on tasting sheet) and
 2) Sevilen, Plato Kaleck Karasi 2011 (wine #6 on tasting sheet).
Both wines were excellent representatives of Turkish wines. I particularly liked the Kavaklidere, Narince Chardonnay 2011, a blend of Narince and Chardonnay. What made this white wine special for me was that the blend included the indigenous Narince grape. I must admit I have developed a special liking for Turkey's indigenous grapes. I am totally convinced that with world-wide exposure Turkish wines will become popular. My best guess is that there is a special niche in the wine industry for wines made from indigenous Turkish grapes. 

Tasting Kavaklidere Wine
I also tasted some awesome Kavaklidere wines at a tasting session following the Grand Terroir. Two Kavaklidere wines that I tasted were Boğazkere 2004 and Kalecik Karasi 1995.
Kavaklidere Boğazkere 2004 and Kalecik Karasi 1995 © Spaswinefood

I loved these two special wines, with their refined elegance. Special thanks to a Turkish sommelier that brought them to my attention. They were indeed a special treat. While in Turkey I tasted not only great wines derived from the popular international grapes and Narince but from other indigenous Turkish grapes, such as Öküzgözü, Boğazkere and Kalecik Karasi. 

Do Not let First Impressions Fool You
My first introduction to Kavaklidere wines however, were not as elegant as my #EWBC12 tasting experiences. My initial samplings were on Turkish Airline and at Turkish hotels, as I traveled throughout Turkey.
Kavaklidere red wine © Spaswinefood
Wine in Today's Turkey
I struggle with how to write about Turkish wines these days. In fact, I can not without mentioning what has happened in recent weeks in Turkey. Ken Payton's article describes the threats to Turkey's wine industry. Recent social unrest in Turkey goes far beyond the restrictions placed on the sale of wine, to challenging the overall restrictions to democratic freedom. 

I will continue to write about memories of my travels in Turkey at Spaswinefood

Sharon
June 2013
San José, California
©Spaswinefood

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