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Wednesday, November 4, 2015

Postcards from a Northern Greece wine safari

Just imagine clicking on a message in your inbox that describes "a wine safari in Northern Greece".  I immediately knew this was an adventure not to be passed up. For wine enthusiasts a trip billed as 100 hours on the wine road, with opportunities to discover new wines, is absolute nirvana. Our action-packed wine adventure, from seaside to mountaintop, included visits to a dozen wineries. What Spaswinefood encountered on this wine adventure was great wines and food, and amazing hospitality. 
Vineyard, Domaine Porto Carras © Spaswinefood

Northern Greece: Alexander the Great, beaches and vineyards

You will soon discover that in Greece you are never far from a beach and the vineyards are even closer. Northern Greece, the homeland of Alexander the Great, has been making wine since the dawn of civilization. Ancient Greeks developed viticultural and winemaking methods that were shared with early European winemaking communities. While the reputation of Greek wines has varied throughout time today Northern Greece wines are amongst the best wines in the world. 

Typically whenever I have mentioned Greece the immediate reaction from most is to mention the beaches, the food and the economy. Even with the recent downturn in the economy my traveling friends are still going on holidays to Greece. Obviously Greece is a popular destination for travelers. All visitors to Greece should include Northern Greece in their travel plans. During our trip to the mainland of Northern Greece I discovered a world just perfect for the culinary adventurer. Here's why. Northern Greece is where you will find wines, such as Assyrtiko, Xinomavro (some of which comes from grapes grown on 100 year old vines), Cabernet grown at 1,000 meter altitude and a new-style Retsina. Assyrtiko (A seer' tec ko) is a white wine whereas Xinomavro (Ksee NOH mah vroh) is a red wine. During our visit we tasted excellent AssyrtikoXinomavro, Retsina and international varieties. Great wines and food, with stunning scenery makes Northern Greece the perfect culinary escape.



Northern Greece's Wine Road
The following postcards highlight stops we made along the wine road. 

Postcard: Day #1

After three nights in Athens we flew to Thessaloniki where we joined fellow wine bloggers

1) Domaine Porto Carras
After a brief stopover in Thessaloniki we drove onto Domaine Porto Carras in Sithonia Halkidiki. There we toured the estate, had a wine tasting, followed by dinner at Domaine Porto Carras. This full service resort is perhaps one of the most beautiful wine estates in Northern Greece.
 View, Porto Carras Estate © Spaswinefood
Late Evening View, Porto Carras Estate © Spaswinefood
Chateau Porto Carras Wines © Spaswinefood
Wine Tasting, Porto Carras © Spaswinefood

After dinner we drove east towards Thessaloniki where we stayed at an hotel in Perea.

Postcard: Day #2 

1) Domaine Gerovassiliou
Next morning, it was onto Epanomi Thessaloniki to visit Ktima Gerovassiliou. Ktima Gerovassiliou is a winery surrounded by vineyards.
Domaine Gerovassiliou © Spaswinefood
Wine Tasting, Ktima Gerovassiliou © Spaswinefood
Ktima Gerovassiliou Wines © Spaswinefood
After a great wine tasting we were treated to an amazing morning snack/brunch.
Restaurant, Ktima Gerovassiliou © Spaswinefood
Snack Time, Ktima Gerovassiliou © Spaswinefood

2) Tsantali 
Next stop was at Tsantali for a Rapsani Safari Wine Adventure. We boarded 4X4 's and headed into the Olympus Mountains vineyards.
Tasting Rapsani © Spaswinefood
There in the beautiful mountains, overlooking the nearby town, we did a wine tasting. Our hosts also provided the most wonderful collection of cheeses to go along with the excellent wine tasting.
Inviting Local Cheeses, Rapsani © Spaswinefood
Rapsani Wines © Spaswinefood

After the wine tasting we had a late lunch in the nearby town. 

Restaurant, Rapsani © Spaswinefood
3) Boutari Winery
After a late afternoon lunch it was onto Stenimahos Naoussa to visit the Boutari Winery.
Arriving at Boutari © Spaswinefood
It was a late arrival at Boutari where we did a wine tasting from three wineries before dinner. The wine tasting not only included Boutari wines but also wines from Elinos and Kitrvs. It was a fabulous lineup of wines that we tasted.
Kitrvs Wines © Spaswinefood
Elinos Wines © Spaswinefood
Boutari, 1879  Xinomavro,  Single Vineyard Naoussa 2007 © Spaswinefood

Yes, Greek food is always so inviting.
Dinner, Boutari © Spaswinefood
It was quite a busy day. However, it was indeed exciting to be introduced to all the wines.

Postcard: Day #3 

1) Kir-Yianni Winery
After a restful night in Naoussa we travelled onto Giannakohori the next day.
Kir-Yianni © Spaswinefood
Our travels to Giannakohori included a visit to Kir-Yianni Winery. Again the setting surrounding the winery was stunning.
Kir-Yianni Wines © Spaswinefood
While at Kir-Yianni we joined a group of sommeliers from Austria and Greece for another excellent wine tasting. The tasting was followed by lunch on the patio overlooking the vineyards. 

2. Alpha Estate
It was a two hour drive from Giannakohori to the Alpha Estate, Amynteon. Angelos Latridis, winemaker and co-proprietor met us. He took us on a tour of Alpha's scenic vineyards, including a visit to a block of old vine Xinomavro. Yes, later we did get to taste wine from this vineyard block.
Touring Alpha Estate © Spaswinefood
Our host took us through a very detailed wine tasting. Before leaving Alpha Estate we ate our second lunch. It was indeed a pleasure to spend time with Angelos Latridis.
Wine Tasting with Angelos Latridis, Alpha Estate © Spaswinefood

3) Katogi Averoff
From Alpha Winery it was onto Metsovo where we toured Katogi Averoff, a winery hotel and did a tasting of their wines before dinner. We spent the night at Katogi Averoff. Metsovo, located in the mountains, would make a perfect mountain getaway.
Wine Tasting, Katogi Averof © Spaswinefood
Dinner, Katogi Averof © Spaswinefood

Postcard: Day #4

1) Stelios Kechris Domaine
Our fourth day began with a drive to Kalohori Thessaloniki to visit Stelios Kechris Domaine.
Stelios Kechris Domaine © Spaswinefood

We had come to Stelios Kechris Domaine to taste its awarding winning Restina.  Retsina is a white, or rosé wine that has been made for over 2,000 years. The wine is made using the same techniques for making white and rosé wines, with Aleppo Pine resin added during fermentation. Later while racking the wine it is clarified by removing the solids and film created by the resin. 

After an exciting wine tasting we ate lunch. 
It was indeed a special treat to taste Stelios Kechris Retsina.
Lunch, Stelios Kechris Domaine © Spaswinefood

2) Biblia Chora Estate
Next, we drove to Kokkinohori Kavala to visit the Biblia Chora Estate. There we toured the winery and did another inviting wine tasting. Even though it was getting dark we took the time to take a glimpse of the experimental vineyard.
Biblia Chora Estate © Spaswinefood
Of course we had wonderful cheeses to go along with the wine tasting.

3) Wine Art Estate
After leaving Biblia Chora Estate it was onto Mikrohori Drama where we toured the Wine Art Estate, did a wine tasting followed by an awesome dinner. The dinner was prepared for us by one of the winery owners who love to cook. 
Wine Art Estate © Spaswinefood
After a wonderful dinner at the Wine Art Estate we checked into an hotel in Drama.

Postcard: Day #5

1) Ktima Pavlidis
Next morning we were off to Kokkinogia Drama to visit Ktima Pavlidis winery. 
Wine Tasting, Ktima Pavlidis © Spaswinefood
During our visit to Ktima Pavlidis we toured the winery. A delightful wine tasting and a lunch followed. Before leaving Ktima Pavlidis we posed for a group photo.
Ktima Pavlidis © Spaswinefood


After lunch we drove from Kokkinogia Drama to Plovdiv, Bulgaria to participate in the Digital Wine Communications Conference (#dwcc15). Our wine safari through Northern Greece was absolutely outstanding.

I suspect most independent travelers will find the above itenary too intense. My recommendation would be to take more time or visit fewer places. Those traveling with a tour company should ask to have to winery visits included in their itinerary. Future travelers on Northern Greece's wine road will discover 1) why Greek wine is not just any wine, 2) myths and culinary traditions, and 3) some Greek tongue-twisters. In future posts I look forward describing each winery visit in more detail. 

I just know there will be a Greek goddess/god calling me to taste more Greek wines or visit a vineyard soon.  Spaswinefood is so looking forward to future explorations along Greek Wine Trails. Our press trip was indeed an action-packed, seaside to mountaintop visit to Northern Greece wineries. I invite you to join me in my travels in Greece and elsewhere at Spaswinefood.



Sharon
October 2015
Greece
© Spaswinefood

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Note: This expense paid Press Trip was sponsored by #dwcc15 and #NorthGRTrip


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