When I think of Torrontés, Argentina's emblematic white wine, my thoughts quickly return Cafayate, Salta. Amongst the first images that pop into my mind are those of Bodega Nanni, a small, organically certified winery know for its organic wines. The winery is located on a street not far from the central plaza. I looked forward to revisiting this Valles Calchaquíes winery because I had such fond memories of this Argentine producer's wines. During a recent visit this Spaswinefood enthusiast enjoyed lunch at their restaurant, followed by a tasting of Nanni's wines. Bodega Nanni is a must on Salta's Ruta Del Vin.
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| Torronté Moments, Bodega Nanni © Spaswinefood |
As we approached the bodega a mural painted on a wall nearby caught my attention. The mural captures the beautiful, high desert scrub landscape of Valles Calchaquíes wine country. Wine enthusiasts who make their way to Cafayate will undoubtfully enjoy discovering the wineries scattered throughout the valley.
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| Painted Murals, Cafayate © Spaswinefood |
Retoño Restaurant, Bodega Nanni
Bodega Nanni is one of Cafayate's smaller wineries with a restaurant. When arrived at the tasting room it was closed; so while waiting for the tasting room to open we ate lunch in their restaurant. Nanni's Retoño Restaurant is located at the back of the winery. You need to pass through a waiting area outside the tasting room before reaching the restaurant in a garden area.
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| Bodega Nanni Entrance Area © Spaswinefood |
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| Restaurant is Open, Bodega Nanni © Spaswinefood |
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| Entrance, Bodega Nanni © Spaswinefood |
After walking into the garden at the back you discover that you can dine inside or outside the restaurant.
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Retoño, Bodega Nanni © Spaswinefood
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| Garden Table Ready, Bodega Nanni © Spaswinefood |
We choose to dine inside.
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| Retoño Restaurant, Bodega Nanni © Spaswinefood |
I always love to look around a restaurant. In this case the colorful tables certainly caught my attention.
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| Table for Four at Retoño, Bodega Nanni © Spaswinefood |
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| Table Waiting at Retoño, Bodega Nanni © Spaswinefood |
That day we ordered a quinoa salad and steak.
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| Quinoa Salad, Bodega Nanni's Retoño © Spaswinefood |
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| Lunch is Ready, Bodega Nanni's Retoño © Spaswinefood |
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| Tasty Ribs, Bodega Nanni's Retoño © Spaswinefood |
We selected a Nanni Torrontés wine for lunch.
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| Bodega Nanni, Torrontés 2015 © Spaswinefood |
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| Bodega Nanni, Torrontés 2015 (back label) © Spaswinefood |
This is quite a delightful wine to enjoy with lunch.
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| Torrontés Time, Bodega Nanni © Spaswinefood |
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| Bodega Nanni, Torrontés in the Glass © Spaswinefood |
Sipping this delicious wine while looking onto the garden was so relaxing.
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| Rose Filled View, Bodega Nanni © Spaswinefood |
Time, even when it is delightful, does not not stand still. On the way out I took another look. Often it fascinates me the new observations that I make on the way out. On this ocassion I explored some of the details in the garden.
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| Retoño Garden Area, Bodega Nanni © Spaswinefood |
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| Wine Barrel, Bodega Nanni © Spaswinefood |
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| Bodega Nanni Garden © Spaswinefood |
Whenever I take a closer look there are always more details to observe.
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| End January Grapes, Bodega Nanni © Spaswinefood |
While looking at the vines I spotted a butterfly.
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| Butterfly Moment, Bodega Nanni © Spaswinefood |
Then that one last glance back into the garden as I returned to the tasting room waiting area.
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| Bodega Nanni Garden Entrance © Spaswinefood |
Bodega Nanni Wines
While waiting for the tasting to begin I saw a poster, which reminded me that the Valles Calchaquíes is home to high altitude wines. This family-run bodega has existed for 120 years. After they
celebrated their centenary in 1997, they decided to go organic. Their Tannat,
Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon are among the wines that are certified as
‘fully organic’ by SENASA. Their fresh and fragrant Torrontés, Argentina’s only
native white grape, is definitely not only a flagship for this winery but the region.
Nanni wines include the following lines.
1. Bodega Nanni
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| Bodega Nanni Wines © Spaswinefood |
The Bodega Nanni wines include Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon (red and rosé), and Malbec whereas its Torrontés white wine includes both the dry Torrontés and late harvest sweet wine. Most of their reserve wines are 100% (Bonarda, Syrah, Tannat etc.) although they do produce a Cabernet Malbec blend. Whereas their top wines, Grand Reserve, are blends.
Bodega Nanni Reserve
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Bodega Nanni, Reserve Wines © Spaswinefood
Bodega Nanni, Arcanus Gran Reserva
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Bodega Nanni, Arcanus Grand Reserva 2004, 2007 and 2011 © Spaswinefood
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When we first visited Valles Calchaquíes Bodega Nanni we bought their Bonarda Reserve 2008. This time I managed to view the 2010 vintage. Nanni's wines are quality wines. My favorites are their Torrontés, Bonarda and Tannat reserve wines. Moreover, their Grand Reseva blends get amazing reviews.
For further insights into this family owned winery see Rudi Goldman's video. Visitors should also note that on the same street you will also find El Transito winery. We so enjoyed discovering the special offerings at Bodega Nanni.
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| Bodega Nanni © Spaswinefood |
Things to do In/Near Cafayate
Besides exploring Cafayate’s Ruta Del Vino just journey north of Cafayate, on Ruta 68. It is here you will find beautiful canyons such as, Quebrada de Cafayate. If you go north on Ruta 40 to Molinos there you can take a ripio (gravel) road detour to visit Colomé Winery, one of Argentina’s top wineries. In addition Cafayate, the Cradle of Folklore, is home to the indigenous people, Kallchaki.
Getting to/from Cafayate
Cafayate does not have an airport and is only accessible by car or bus. The shortest route (Ruta 68) is 165 kilometers of winding road from Salta, capital city of Salta Province. Flights to Salta from Buenos Aires and other major cities in Argentina are available on Aerolinas Argentinas and other carriers. It is well worth the effort because Cafayate wineries are delightful to visit. Moreover Cafayate offers a good range of choices for restaurants and accommodations. While in Cafayate we stayed at Patios de Cafayate Hotel and Spa at Bodega El Esteco.
Cafayate is a very special place where we especially enjoyed rediscovering wineries, such as Bodega Nanni. Naturally this wine country enthusiast looks forward to writing about our most recent Argentine explorations. You can check out my travels in Argentina and elsewhere at Spaswinefood.
Sharon
January 2017
Cafayate, Salta Province
Argentina
© Spaswinefood
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| Bodega Nanni, Salta Ruta Del Vino © Spaswinefood |
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