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Monday, September 25, 2017

Foodie and wine hot spots in Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires

Just imagine being in Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires when it is summertime in the southern hemisphere. Summer is a perfect time for a vine-inspired adventure in Argentina. Last February when Spaswinefood returned to Argentina we spent a week in Buenos Aires. We returned to the Palermo where we stayed in Palermo Soho, a hip neighborhood where you will find some of the best restaurants and wine bars in Buenos AiresWhat follows are some our food and wine discoveries in this Buenos Aires neighborhood.
Bread & Wine, Pain et Vin © Spaswinefood

Discovering Palermo Soho's Foodie and Wine Hot Spots
It was earlier travels in Argentina that sparked my passion for wine travels. Returning to Buenos Aires we so fondly remembered earlier our stay in Palermo. This time we decided to primarily focus on Palermo Soho, with some venturing out to other areas in Buenos Aires. Since there are endless dining options with great wines in this neighborhood we started first with the wine bars.

Palermo Soho Wine Bars
After a little research on wine bars off we went unannounced on February 14th to begin our impromptu #Winelover 5th Anniversary celebrations. Yes, just let this #winelover loose in Buenos Aires and she will find the perfect spot. We just happen to be there on Valentines Day. As #winelover friends celebrated the 5th #winelover anniversary at other locals around the world we celebrated at Pain et Vin Wine Bar. Pain et Vin is known for its excellence in breads and wines. We were excited to checkout what happens when an Israeli cook and his Argentine sommelier wife brought their talents to create a wine bar. 
Spaswinefood, Pain et Vin Wine Bar, Buenos Aires © Spaswinefood
During our wine country travels I just love finding those special places. In this case it just happened to be Pain et Vin, the first wine bar we visited.
Spaswinefood, Pain et Vin, Buenos Aires © Spaswinefood
#Winelover, Pain et Vin © Spaswinefood
Besides it was the perfect way to spend a rainy summer's day in Buenos Aires.

Pain et Vin (Bread and Wine) Wine Bar
What follows are vignettes from the visit which was filled with tempting wines, and great breads and service. 
Welcome, Pain et Vin © Spaswinefood
Menu, Pain et Vin © Spaswinefood
We decided to order a flight of white and red wines to taste.
Wine Flights, Pain et Vin © Spaswinefood

The white and rose flight was delightful.
1st Flight, Pain et Vin © Spaswinefood
Now for a closer look at what was in the glasses, starting on the left. 

1. Bodega Mendel, Semillon 2015

Bodega Mendel, Semillon 2015 is a barrel fermented wine produced from grapes grown in 60+ year vineyard in Mendoza's Uco Valley, Roberto de la Mota, winemaker. 
2. Very Blanc 2016
Very Blanc 2016 wine is part of a new wine series called Very Wine produced by Bodega Los Toneles, Mendoza. These wines are aged in concrete eggs. 
3. Bodega Diamandes, L'Argentin Malartic Rosé 2016
Bodega Diamandes, L'Argentin Malartic Rosé 2016 is produced from Malbec grapes grown in Mendoza's Uco Valley. 
Yes, these wines were all wines from Mendoza.
1st Flight Wines, Pain et Vin © Spaswinefood
Did say I loved the Very Blanc wine label?
Very Blanc 2016 © Spaswinefood
1st Flight Wines © Spaswinefood
Then the red wines were added to the mix.
Wine Flights, Pain et Vin © Spaswinefood
The red wine lineup included more Mendoza wines.
Red Wine Flight, Pain et Vin © Spaswinefood
Let's take a closer look at the red wines (right to left this time).

1. Desquichiado Wines, Malbec 2015

Desquichiado Wines, Malbec 2015 is sourced from Malbec grapes grown in a 10 year old vineyard at Gualtallary, Tunpungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza. Gazalo Tamagnini is the winemaker.
Desquichiado Malbec 2015 © Spaswinefood
2. El Relator Wine, Cabernet Franc 2015
The second red wine El Relator Wine, Cabernet Franc 2015 from Uco Valley, Mendoza.
Relator Cabernet Franc 2015 © Spaswinefood
3. Bodega Tapezio, Petit BoBo 2013
The third red wine was Bodega Tapezio, Petit BoBo (Bourgeois + Bohemian) 2013. A red wine blend of Malbec and Cabernet Franc produced from grapes grown at Finca La Promesa in Agrelo, Luyan de Cuyo, Mendoza.
Tapezio Petit BoBo 2013 © Spaswinefood
Now did I say a #winelover's life is a tough life. Yes, but someone has to do it.
Wine Tasting 101, Pain et Vin © Spaswinefood
Wine Flights, Pain et Vin © Spaswinefood
While all of the wines were from Mendoza it was exciting for me to be introduced to wines from some of Mendoza's smaller producers.

Now for the food, yes there was bread (bread and cheese). Besides bread and cheese we ordered sandwiches for lunch. These were no ordinary sandwiches.

BLT Sandwich, Pain et Vin © Spaswinefood
Eggplant Sandwich, Pain et Vin © Spaswinefood
Needless to say we enjoyed the wine tasting over lunch. Before I left I asked the waitress what was her favorite wine. She said Bonarda. This response definitively triggered memories. Also we returned another day to taste a few of those Bonarda wines.

Lo de Joaquín Alberdi (Lo de JA)
Another Palermo Soho wine bar and wine shop that is a must is Lo de Joaquín Alberdi (Lo de JA). 
Lo de Joaquín Alberdi (Lo de JA) © Spaswinefood
Lo de Joaquín Alberdi © Spaswinefood
Scattered throughout the neighborhood you will find other fine options, like Vinosfera Wine Gallery.
Vinosfera Wine Gallery © Spaswinefood
Other Palermo must visit wine bar options include Bar du Marché and Trova in Palermo Hollywood.

Now I need to highlight a few Palermo Soho restaurants and cafes.


Las  Pizarras Restaurant
Our first night in Palermo Soho we had dinner at Las Pizarras Bistro.
Las  Pizarras Bistro © Spaswinefood
We ended up liking this restaurant so much that we returned another evening for dinner.
Menu, Las  Pizarras Bistro © Spaswinefood
Here are the dishes that we enjoyed.
Caprice Salad, Las  Pizarras Bistro © Spaswinefood
Heirloom Tomatoes, Las  Pizarras Bistro © Spaswinefood
Gnocchi, Las  Pizarras Bistro © Spaswinefood
Gapachio, Las  Pizarras Bistro © Spaswinefood
Duck, Las  Pizarras Bistro © Spaswinefood
Let's not forget dessert.
Chocolate, Las  Pizarras Bistro © Spaswinefood
Creme Caramel, Las  Pizarras Bistro © Spaswinefood
Now a few comments on the wines. After an earlier visit to El Provenir in Cafayate this Torrontés was an easy decision.
El Provenir, Torrontés Single Vineyard 2014 © Spaswinefood
Similarly fond memories of wines from Alta Vista, Mendoza lead us to select this wine.
Alta Vista, Cabernet Sauvignon Premium Estate 2014 © Spaswinefood
Based on our two dining experiences at Las  Pizarras Bistro we would highly recommend this restaurant. What I liked most about this bistro was the tasty food, vegetarian friendly menu options, good wines and service.

Don Julio
One of the must visit restaurants is Don Julio.
Waiting for a Table, Don Julio © Spaswinefood
They come from all over Buenos Aires to dine at Don Julio. Get there early as a line starts at 9:00 pm. We had a delightful street side dinner at Don Julio.
Dining Street Side, Don Julio © Spaswinefood
If you are looking for meat this family run parrilla is know for its meat (bife de chorizo and bife de lomo). Vegetarians will also find options on the menu. Winelover will not be disappointed in 150 wines offered here. It was the perfect evening to order a Zuccardi wine. This red wine blend was a great choice.
Zuccardi,Tito Valle de Uco 2013 © Spaswinefood
 Summer evenings in Palermo Soho are indeed fun times to explore the restaurant scene.
Evenings in Palermo Soho © Spaswinefood
Buenos Aires neighborhoods come to life at dinner time.

Casual Dining in Palermo Soho
If you are looking for something on the casual side it is hard to beat places like La Fabrica de Taco.
La Fabrica de Taco, Palermo Soho © Spaswinefood
La Fabrica de Taco © Spaswinefood
These days you will also find a number of hamburger places. Our favorite was The Burger Joint. Yes vegetarians have options here.
The Burger Joint © Spaswinefood
More Options in Palermo Soho
There is no shortage of tempting restaurants with street side seating.
Street Side Dining, Palermo Soho © Spaswinefood
Often we would go out with a short list of restaurants with a summary of reviews. We loved discovering a place for lunch or dinner. It was the perfect way to get to know the neighborhood.
Making foodie discoveries in Palermo Soho is so much fun.
Il Matterello © Spaswinefood
Restaurante El Perferido, Palermo Soho © Spaswinefood
Frida Kahlo, Palermo Soho © Spaswinefood
Cafe Scene in Palermo Soho
Let us not forget the cafes. Stopping for coffee or tea is an easy option in Palermo Soho.
Lobo Cafe © Spaswinefood
Our last day in Buenos Aires when we took our final walk around Palermo Soho. We stopped for tea at La Panera Rosa. Then it was off to the airport.
La Panera Rosa, Palermo Soho © Spaswinefood
Tea at La Panera Rosa © Spaswinefood
Lemon Pie, La Panera Rosa © Spaswinefood
Like most visitors doing hotels stays we ate breakfast at our hotel.
BoBo Hotel Restaurant © Spaswinefood
While in Palermo Soho we stayed at BoBo Hotel. I would highly recommend staying at an neighborhood, like Bobo Hotel. For longer stays I would recommend an apartment.
BoBo Hotel, Palermo Soho © Spaswinefood
Spending our last week in Argentina in Buenos Aires was the perfect ending for our Argentine travels. Obviously other than checking out Palermo Soho we explored the city. A few highlights included San Telmo. One of our special nights out included a visit to Aramburu Restaurante. Just in case you are wondering this restaurant was on Latin Americas 50 Best Restaurants 2016. If your travels take you to Buenos Aires put Aramburu Restaurante on your fine dining list. For something more casual checkout Aramburu BIS owned by the same chef.

Yes, summer in the Southern Hemisphere is the perfect time for Argentine wine travels. My overall suggestion is to use online sources because with a little research you can improve your odds of having a great dining experience. Buenos Aires has so many great restaurants. There are new restaurants opening all the time. I invite you to join me in my travels in Argentina and elsewhere in search of the best in Spaswinefood.


Sharon
February 2017 
Buenos Aires, Argentina
© Spaswinefood
Jardín Botánico Carlos Tharp, Buenos Aires © Spaswinefood
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