We have been meeting virtually for Wine Wednesday for awhile now. Given that some of us have been vaccinated we decided to do a combination of a virtual meeting, and a small group outside gathering on San Patrick's Day. Moreover, when you meet on San Patrick's Day then maybe it is a time to think green. Hence our first wine was chosen for the occasion. While Vinho Verde was a great wine to kick off a Saint Patrick's Day gathering our other wine choices included Hungarian and Californian wines.
Casal Garcia, Vinho Verde, Portugal
Vinho Verde literally means green wine but is best translated as young wine. As its name suggests Vinho Verde wines are best drank young. Vinho Verde wine region is the largest DOC in Portugal and one of the largest wine regions in Europe. This region, one of the oldest in Portugal, was demarcated in 1908. Today's Vinho Verde DOC includes Minho Province, plus adjacent areas to the south.
Vinho Verde is produced in a variety of wine types. These wine types include white, rosé, red, sparkling and spirits. The wine can be made from a single grape variety, or a blend of indigenous grapes. The main grape varieties used to make white wine include Alvarinho, Arinto, Avesso, Azal, Batoca Loureiro and Trajadura. Whereas the grape varieties used to make red wine inlude Amaral, Borraçal, Alvarelhão, Espadeiro, Padeiro, Pedral, Raho de Anho and Vinhão. The overall characteristics of Vinho Verde wines are (1) light and flavorful, (2) lower in alcohol, (3) soft on the palate, (4) fruity and floral aromas and (5) lower in calories.
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| Discovering Vinho Verde Wines © Spaswinefood |
While Vinho Verde was a great way to kick off a Saint Patrick's Day gathering our other wine choices included Hungarian and Californian wines. It was a great day for some amazing wine discoveries. Let us take a look at these discoveries.
Hungarian Wines
Grapes grown in Hungarian vineyards include traditional, regional and international grape varieties. Hungary has 22 official wine regions, each region has their own particular blend of culture, history, terroir and wine style. I will focus only on the Villány Wine Region.
Villány Wine Region
Close to the border of Croatia, Villány enjoys a considerably warmer, more Mediterranean climate, with long hot summers and mild winters. As such, it’s particularly good for growing and tending to grapes for wines. While there are some distinctive whites on offer here, it’s primarily the reds it is famous for. Villány’s top red wines are Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Kékfrankos. The Kékfrankos and Portugieser grapes, which are native to the volcanic soil here, and have been producing some great vintages for years.
One of the reasons for Villány’s recent popularity, however, is its focus on French grapes, particularly Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet (Franc & Sauvignon). The fact that it’s some of the best wine in the country might do a disservice to Hungary’s wines from native grapes, but it is in fact a celebration of the region’s perfect position for producing extremely fine drinks.
Wine Folly notes “The wines here are world-class, structured and elegant, with good tannins and a balance of fruit and earth. Native grapes are grown volcanic soils, include Portugesier and Kékfrankos, but many producers focus on red Bordeaux varieties, like Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Several international critics in the 2000’s have said that Cabernet Franc has found its new home in Villány. The grape is widely planted in the region and can result in polished, velvety wines that burst with new world fruit but are rounded out by an old world earthiness. Green pepper typically takes a backseat to black currant, fruitcake, and raspberry, with subtle acids and a long, languorous finish. Expect to spend $25–$30.”
Commenting on Hungarian wines Jancis Robinson notes “Reds are less distinctive but made with increasing competence, as witness offerings from the likes of Malatinszky and Gere. Young Kékfrankos can be particularly juicy and appetising, while some vintages (Hungary's weather can vary considerably from year to year) yield some fine Pinot Noir fruit. Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc are starting to shine, especially in Villány in the south.”
Cabernet Franc is a variety that is so strongly associated with the Villány region. Villány’s appellation system, DHC (Districtus Hungaricus Controllatus), distinguishes three levels of quality for the wines of the area: Classicus, Superior, and Super Premium. In the case of Cabernet Franc it is produced only in Premium or Super Premium styles, it can not even be labelled as simply Cabernet Franc. It is a Villányi Franc.
Gere Attila Winery, a family winery founded in 1991, is considered synonymous with the Villány wine region, and Villány is considered synonymous with Gere. Attitla Gere is an iconic figure in the Hungarian wine scene. Amongst his achievements are, being named Winemaker of the Year, and creating Gere Kopar, Hungary's most iconic red wine, which is sold out in advance of its release due to high demand. We tasted three wines from this winery.
1. Fekete Járdovany 2018
Wineries like Gere experiment with unusual varieties for Villány, such as Tempranillo. In addition, they are also growing close to extinction, ancient Carpathian Basin varieties, like Fekete Járdovány, Bakator, Purcsin, Csóka, and others. Fekete Járdovány (FEH-KEH-TEH EEARDO-VAN) is indeed a rare find. In fact this might be the only commercial production of wine from Fekete Járdovány. Fekete Járdovány, an ancient Carpathian grape, is hard to find growing anywhere. Southern Hungary's once popular grape variety almost went extinction when phylloxera destroyed most of Europe's vineyards. Fortunately Gere started working with The Vine and Wine Research Institute Pécs to revive seven Carpathian Basin grape varieties in 2004. Given Fekete Járdovány showed great potential Gere produced its first vintage of Fekete Járdovány in 2011.
2. Villányi Franc 2017
A Gere Winery, Villányi Franc DHC Super Premium is a very special wine. As noted Cabernet Franc is a variety that is strongly associated with the Villány region, and is therefore a Villányi Franc. This Villányi Franc is a Super Premium, which is one of the categories created exclusively for Cabernet Franc.
3. Kopar 2017
Since its first release in 1997, Kopar has became a symbol of the Villány region. It is also Gere’s signature wine. This wine is a blend of 50% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. This full-bodied, age-worthy wine is one of Hungary’s most sought after wines. It is popular with tasting groups for vertical tastings, and fans are known to buy cases to cellar for years.
Carolyn and Gábor Bánfalvi, Taste Hungary, are wine merchants and wine educators, who split their time between Budapest and DC. Their focus is on introducing exceptional, hard-to-find wines from small, family-owned producers to a whole new audience.
California Wine
We tasted two California wines, from two different wine regions (Sonoma and Santa Barbara). Ridge Vineyards exists in two locations Lytton Springs and Monte Bello. It is the largest grower of organically certified grapes in Sonoma County and in the Santa Cruz Mountains appellations. In 1962, Ridge made its first Monte Bello, and two years later its first zinfandel. Since that time, Ridge has championed single-vineyard winemaking, searching California for those rare and exceptional vineyards where climate, soil, and variety are ideally matched. We tasted a Zinfandel from Lytton Springs.
Tensley Wines was launched in 1998 by Joey Tensley with one hundred cases and one single goal: to start a well-priced, Syrah-driven brand that let the unique vineyards of Santa Barbara County speak for themselves. Today, Tensley is a 5,000 case-a-year business with Syrah’s that have made the Wine Spectator’s Top 100, scored 99 points with Robert Parker, and won Food and Wine Magazine’s award for the “Top Syrah in America over $20.”
1. Ridge, Lytton Springs Zinfandel, Dry Creek, Sonoma 2018
72% Zinfandel, 18% Petite Sirah, 8% Carignane, 2% Mataro
Vineyard: Lytton Springs Appellation: Dry Creek Valley
This is an award winning wine as indicated by the following reviews:
96 Points – Erin Brooks, The Wine Advocate
96 Points – Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media
94 Points (Cellar Selection) – Wine Enthusiast
93 Points – Zinfandel Chronicles
92 Points – Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com
91 Points – Connoisseurs’ Guide
2. Tensley Wines, Syrah, Santa Barbara County 2019
Once again, this Syrah brings together all of the fascinating microclimates Santa Barbara County has to offer. It is from Tensley’s backbone vineyards: Thompson, Colson Canyon, and Tensley, and also features Syrah from Cottonwood Canyon and Estelle Vineyards. Some of these vineyards are cool and fog-influenced, while others are dry and windy. The resulting wine celebrates all that each microclimate has to offer. The elegant blend has complex notes of red plums, blackberries, exotic spices, and peppered meats. This wine has silky tannins, well balanced, and, to quote wine critic Jeb Dunnuck, is a “smoking value.” Drink this wine now, or age it for 8-10 years.
St. Patrick's Day 2021 was a great day for some amazing wine discoveries. I invite you to join me in my future wine adventures at Spaswinefood.
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