Those earlier days in Sicily: Donnafugata's historic cellars and vineyards

Opening a bottle of Donnafugata's iconic wine reminded me of those earlier days in Sicily. One of Spaswinefood's favorite wine outings was a visit in 2014 to Donnafugata in Marsala. Marsala in Western Sicily was not originally included in our plans for a two week adventure in Sicily.  However, since we had planned a visit to Agrigento we decided to make a day trip to Marsala, just to visit Donnafugata's Winery. Donnafugata is a family winery founded by Gabriella and Giacomo Rallo in 1983. While I was introduced to Donnafugata wines before visiting Sicily however, there is nothing like tasting wine where it is produced. 

Donnafugata, Ben Ryé, Passito Di Pantelleria DOP 2010 © Spaswinefood

Donnafugata, Marsala

Donnafugata's Winery was well worth the drive that November morning from Agrigento. The historic family cellars is a production facility focused on excellence. Originally built in 1851, the winery has preserved the typical Mediterranean “baglio” layout.  Its large inner courtyard, is dotted with citrus and olive trees, and its wooden trusses were made by ancient hatchet craftsmen.

Donnafugata Winery, Marsala © Spaswinefood

Sicily, the southernmost part of Italy's wine regions, has been producing wine for over 2,500 years. Clearly, there is a long history of producing wine in Sicily. In the past grapes from Sicily were often exported for wine production elsewhere in Italy. Today's Sicilian wine producers however, recognize the amazing potential of producing their own wines. Sicily's wine culture has seen great changes, with many international prizes being awarded to Sicilian producers. Donnafugata is one of the producers of award winning Sicilian and international wine varieties. The winery's vineyards are located in Contessa Entellina Estate, Pantelleria Estate, Vittoria Estate, and Etna Estate. Contessa Entellina and Pantelleria estates also have tasting rooms.

Donnafugata Locations © Spaswinefood

Donnafugata is working towards minimizing its carbon footprint. It has implemented a number of measures aiming to do just that. As part of its Go Green commitment Donnafugata wine labels now carry a calculation of the Carbon Footprint to produce the wine. Mentioning wine labels Donnafugata has some of the best designs on its wine labels that I have ever seen.

Donnafugata's Carbon Footprint Accounting © Spaswinefood

While visiting Donnafugata Historic Cellars in Marsala we stopped by their stunning underground barrel room.

Donnafugata Barrel Room © Spaswinefood

Time for Donnafugata Wines

Our tour of the winery was followed by a wine tasting. Donnafugata is known for its white wines, red wines and naturally sweet wines. 

Tasting Room, Donnafugata © Spaswinefood

Amongst the white wines that I tasted during that visit were:

1. Donnafugata, Lighea Sicilia IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Typical Geographical Indication))  2013

Donnafugat, Lighea Sicilia IGT 2013 © Spaswinefood

2. Donnafugata Sur Sur, Sicilia DOC (Controlled Designation of Origin) 2013

Donnafugata, Sur Sur, Sicilia DOC 2013 © Spaswinefood

The Sur Sur is made from the Grillo grape. This wine has an amazing taste. I absolutely loved it.

3. Donafugata, Chiarandá, Contessa Entellina Chardonnay DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) 2010

Donnafugata, Chiarandá, Contessa Entellina Chardonnay DOP 2010 © Spaswinefood

All three of these white wines were so expressive. Of course Sur Sur was my favorite.

The red wines that I tasted included:

1. Donnafugata, Mille e una Notte, Contessa Entellina Rosso DOP (Protected Designation of Origin)  2008

Donnafugata, Mille e una Notte, Contessa Entellina Rosso DOP 2008 © Spaswinefood

2. Donnafugata, Tancredi Sicilia Rosso IGT 2010

Donnafugata, Tancredi, Sicilia Rosso IGT 2010 © Spaswinefood

We ended the tasting with a Ben Ryé sweet wine.

1. Donnafugata, Ben Ryé, Passito Di Pantelleria DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) 2010

Donnafugata, Ben Ryé, Passito Di Pantelleria DOP 2010 © Spaswinefood

Ben Ryé, one of Italy's best dessert wines, is also unique. The wine is made from Zibibbo grapes, considered to be a prince among the aromatic varieties. The grapes are grown on the island of Pantelleria where the age of the vines is over 100 years old. Moreover, the ancient agricultural practice of vine sapling the Zibibbo grape has been added by UNESCO to the cultural heritage list of humanity. Pantelleria is a World Heritage Site because of this agricultural practice. Zibibbo (Moscato d’Alessandria) grows in vineyards with very low bush vines (alberello pantesco), on small terraces, bordered by dry lava stone walls that help prevent soil erosion, hence protecting the landscape and biodiversity. This type of agriculture requires more attention, about three times the average vineyard, not to mention the maintenance of the stone walls.

In 1989 Donnafugata began the development of its innovative project on Pantelleria. Today, Donnafugata has 68 hectares of vineyards located in 14 districts, each with different soils, altitude (20 m to 400 m above sea level), exposure, and microclimate. Their winery is located the Khamma district. They described their winery as a small jewel of sustainable architecture, perfectly set in a natural terraced amphitheater. It is on my wish list of places to visit.

More on Donnafugata Wines
Let me not forget that earlier in Palermo while dining at Ristorante Il Mirtoe e la Rosa, we ordered a bottle Donnafrugata Sedára 2012. It was a great introduction to Sicilian wine.

Dining at Il Mirtoe e la Rosa © Spaswinefood

Donnafrugata, Sedára DOC Sicilia 2012 © Spaswinefood

Traveling these days it is so hard to bring back wines. We did however, managed to pickup a few Donnafugata wines during our visit. Who would not be tempted by Ben Ryé?

Donnafugata To Go © Spaswinefood

Special thanks to our wonderful host for a great wine tasting.

Special Thanks, Donnafugata © Spaswinefood

These days when I see a bottle of Donnafugata wine I remember its place of origin. I am so glad that we took the time to drive to Marsala to visit Donnafugata Historic Cellars. It was well worth the drive from Agrigento to visit this very special winery. Our trip to Marsala was also an opportunity to get a sense of Sicily's western wine region. For sure our wine country explorations added a unique perspective to our November two week adventures in (Palermo - Ortigia, Siracusa - Zafferina, Etna - Agrigento - Cefalú - Palermo). The beauty of Sicily will capture your heart, no matter the season. Travelers to Sicily will immediately fall in love with its great wine and food. You can check out my travels in Sicily and elsewhere at Spaswinefood.

Sharon

Remembering November 2014

Sicily, Italy

© Spaswinefood

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