When enjoying California Zinfandel over the years other wine names were often brought up during the discussion. Perhaps you have heard there is a connection between Zinfandel and Primitivo, and maybe even Zinfandel and Plavac Mali? My Zinfandel explorations have lead me to discover Crljenak Kastelanski. Indeed Zinfandel, Primitivo, Crljenak Kastelanski (Tribidrag) and Plavac Mali have things in common. What is the connection? In short Crljenak Kastelanski (original grape and indigenous Croatian grape variety) is a DNA match with Primitivo (from southern Italy and Sicily) and Zinfandel (California). Whereas Plavac Mali is the offspring of Crljenak Kastelanski and Dobricic (another indigenous Croatian grape variety). Let's explore the connection between Zinfandel, Primitivo, Crljenak Kastelanski and Plavac Mali is now understood.
Marian's Vineyard, Lodi, California © Spaswinefood
Before beginning the Zinfandel's story I would like to note that the Croatian Tribidrag (known as Crljenak Kaštelanski in some sources), the Italian Primitivo, the Californian Zinfandel and the Montenegrin Kratošija are genetically (almost) identical. According to the ampelographic rule, a variety is named after the oldest name used, which is why the name Tribidrag, used the 15th century, was suggested in the grape variety bible Wine Grapes. While these varieties are almost genetically identical they have developed somewhat differently over the last 200 years in terms of ripening time, susceptibility to disease and taste. Let's begin in California where Zinfandel has a long history.
In Search of the Zinfandel Connection: Let the Story Begin
Before exploring California's Zinfandel I need to introduce Plavac Mali, the best known Croatian red wine, the nation's most sought-after red wine. Wine-searcher notes that Plavac Mali is one of Croatia's most planted varieties. The grape is found on the Dalmatian Coast, particularly on the Peljesac Peninsula, where the Postup and Dingac appellations are the best known examples of Plavac Mali wines. Plavac Mali gives low grape yields, producing concentrated wines. The result is Plavac Mali wines tend to be rich, age-worthy red wines.
A Wine & More article credits a most famous proponent, Mike Grgich, for helping to bring Plavac Mali to international attention. Plavac Mali was first thought to be genetically identical to the Californian widely planted variety Zinfandel. It was Mike Grgich who was the winemaker of the iconic Chateau Montelena Chardonnay. Yes, the Chardonnay that upset French wine critics in the 1976 Paris Judgement. Grgich in 1977 broke ground for his own Napa Valley winery. This winery is now know as Grgich Hills Estate.
Grgich Hills Estate, Rutherford © Spaswinefood
Croatian and American Flags, Grgich Hills Estate © Spaswinefood
Grgich was the first to note the similarities between Zinfandel and Plavac Mali wines (the wines he knew from his youth on the Dalmatian Coast). When he employed researchers at UC Davis to explore further the findings were interesting. It turned out that the varieties are not identical, but are genetically linked. In fact the testing revealed that Plavac Mali was the offspring of Zinfandel, with the other parent being Dobricic, an ancient variety native to Croatia.
California Zinfandel
Indeed California has had a long history with Zinfandel. I will begin in Lodi, home to some very special Zinfandel wines. While touring Lodi’s historic vineyards August 201 I was introduced to wines from the Native Wine Project. Given Lodi's long history of growing wine grapes in California, it is home to some of the oldest Zinfandel vineyards. I will briefly comment on the Native Wines from these vineyards.
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| Old Zinfandel Vines, Marian's Vineyard © Spaswinefood |
1. Lodi Native is No Ordinary Zin
Some have said that Lodi is more than Zinfandel. That is so true. Nevertheless, there is so much more to Lodi Zinfandel than you can discover at a quick glance. Given its rich diversity of Zinfandel wines let's take a further look at the Lodi Native Project. Lodi Native is a collaborative project with six wineries, where they are using grapes from historical vineyards, which dates back to the late 1800’s. The winemakers are working with Zinfandel grapes from these historical vineyards, with primary focus is on making wines that express the vineyard, or terroir versus varietal character or brand. Moreover, the overall emphasis is on sensible viticultural and minimalist winemaking practices. Such winemaking practices include native yeast fermentation and the use of no new oak. Without a doubt this project has shown me the wonderful range of possibilities for Lodi Zinfandel.
Macchia Wines, our last stop at the end of the tour, was where we were introduced to the ongoing inquiry into Zinfandel wines from Lodi's historic vineyards.  |
| Discussin the Native Wine Project, Lodi © Spaswinefood |
It was the Lodi Native Project that gave me deeper insights into Zinfandel wines from Lodi. Let me not forget to mention that Zinfandel is a indeed grape with its own interesting story. The Zinfandel story will continue to unfold through DNA analysis. This evolving understanding, plus Lodi winemakers bushing the boundaries of Zinfandel, means there are lots of exciting things yet to come from the Lodi Native Project.
2. Amador County Zinfandel
Amador County is also well known for its Zinfandel. This wine region, an historic viticultural area, is home to some of the oldest Zinfandel vineyards in the country. During a 2016 Wine Blogger visit with Amador County Vintners I had the pleasure to meet Winemaker Scott Harvey. Scott Harvey Wines showcase this rich sense of place.
3. More on California Zins
For sure Napa, Lodi and Amador produce some amazing Zinfandel wines. Another Zinfandel example includes award winning Zinfandel wines from Lytton Springs.
Ridge, Lytton Springs Zinfandel, Dry Creek, Sonoma 2018
72% Zinfandel, 18% Petite Sirah, 8% Carignane, 2% Mataro
Vineyard: Lytton Springs Appellation: Dry Creek Valley
This is an award winning wine as indicated by the following reviews:
96 Points – Erin Brooks, The Wine Advocate
96 Points – Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media
94 Points (Cellar Selection) – Wine Enthusiast
93 Points – Zinfandel Chronicles
92 Points – Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com
91 Points – Connoisseurs’ Guide
Ridge, Lytton Springs Zinfandel, Dry Creek, Sonoma 2018 © Spaswinefood
Ridge Vineyards exists in two locations Lytton Springs and Monte Bello. It is the largest grower of organically certified grapes in Sonoma County and in the Santa Cruz Mountains appellations. In 1962, Ridge made its first Monte Bello, and two years later its first Zinfandel. Since that time, Ridge has championed single-vineyard winemaking, searching California for those rare and exceptional vineyards where climate, soil, and variety are ideally matched.
For deep insights into the rich diversity of California Zinfandel visit ZAP (Zinfandel Advocates & Producers). While I have had amble opportunity to explore California Zinfandel on occasion I have also enjoyed getting to Italy's Primitivo. Plavac Mali wines from Croatia has been my most recent wine journey.
Plavac Mali
Since the connection between Zinfandel, Primitivo, Crljenak Kastelanski and Plavac Mali is now better understood, let me conclude with Plavac Mali. After a little background research on Plavac Mali I was ready to explore the wines. Part of my Plavac Mali research included Saints Hills Plavac Mali wines.
Saints Hills Plavac Mali: Wines of the Saints © Spaswinefood
From left to right these wines are:1. Saints Hills Black 2016 - is a complex, medium-bodied Plavac Mali from Dingač and Komarna.
Saints Hills Black 2016 © Spaswinefood
2. Saints Hills Plavac Mali St. Roko 2015
Saints Hills Plavac Mali St. Roko 2015 © Spaswinefood
Vineyard Sv. Roko is located near the base of the scenic Pelješac peninsula, just north of the point where it becomes the mainland. This region is called Komarna, known for winegrowing since the Middle Ages. The mystical, southwest slopes of St. Roko are extremely steep, extremely difficult to cultivate, and extremely full of limestone which protects the vine from drought. To survive, the vine has to grow deep under a protective layer to find the fertile red soil. Exposed to the sun and wind, the vineyards offer spectacular views of the bay, the sea and the Pelješac peninsula. These are extreme conditions for making wine, where no one has made it before.
This full bodied, dry wine of a clear ruby red color with purple nuances, is very often referd to as “The Sun’s Child”. The nose is full of rich fruity aromas of blueberry, blackberry and plum, followed by aromas of mediterranean spice such as mint and basil, and some oregano. The texture is complex, layered with fine aromas of vanilla and dark chocolate, plums and figs,as well as some earthy elements. The finish is long, with notes of berry fruit and black pepper. It is differed by very fine minerallity and freshness.
Food pairing: Osso-bucco, roasted pork.
3. Saints Hills Plavac Mali Dingac 2015 comes from Saints Hills St. Lucia vineyards, which are located in the famous Dingač apellation on the Peljesac Peninsula.
Saints Hills Plavac Mali Dingac 2015 © Spaswinefood
Croatian Premium Wines description of this wine follows:
The nose of this wine is dominated by aromas of ripe red strawberries that are intermixed with those of cream, clove and hints of earthy elements. Aromas of Mediterranean spices and vegetation characterize wine of ruby red color. A warm and full-bodied wine of very pleasant acidity, dominated by chocolate and ripe fruit. Intensive notes of coffee with nutty elements in the background round up this rich Plavac Mali.
I enjoyed getting to know these three Plavac Mali wines from Saints Hills. The wines certainly lived up to the following quote on the bottle:
Love and Passion
Tradition and Expertise
Makes this Wine Worthy of the Saints
Saints Hills Plavac Mali © Spaswinefood
Croatia's Saints Hills wines are indeed Wines of the Saints. I will conclude with saying It is so easy to fall in love with Saints Hills Plavac Mali wines. Now is the perfect time for an at home vine-filled adventure with Croatia's Plavac Mali. Croatian Premium Wine Imports aided in my at-home wine adventure. While I loved creating vine-filled memories I am ready for vine-filled explorations in Croatian wine country. I am plotting for future wine explorations for a deeper understanding of Zinfandel, Primitivo, Crljenak Kastelanski and Plavac Mali wines. Here is a link on how the connection between Zinfandel, Primitivo, Crljenak Kastelanski and Plavac Mali is now understood. I invite you to join me in my future travels in Croatia and elsewhere at Spaswinefood.
Sharon
May 2021
© Spaswinefood
Croatia's Saints Hills: Wines of the Saints © Spaswinefood
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