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Saturday, October 22, 2022

It is so easy to fall in love with Lombardy's Oltrepò Pavese

We crossed the Po River into Oltrepò Pavese, and then later as we drove south, passing over a foothill's mountain crest, we arrived at a very special place. While north of the Po River is characterized by plains, south of the river, the hills and mountains, make it ideal for grape cultivation. Oltrepò Pavese, an area often neglected by tourists and winelovers, is naturally beautiful and so very authentic. As guests of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Oltrepò Pavese, Pavia Province we had come to discover this wine region. 

Welcome to Oltrepò Pavese, Castillo Di Luzzano © Spaswinefood


Right from our arrival at Castillo Di Luzzano we were introduced to wine country at its best. This experience would continue throughout our visit.


Oltrepò Pavese Wine Country,  © Spaswinefood

Lombardy's Oltrepò Pavese 

A large and geographically complex region, Lombardy has 5 DOCGs, 21 DOCs and 15 IGPs titles. Lombardy's home to handful of popular and well-known wine styles including the bright, cherry-scented Valtellina, Franciacorta sparkling wines, and Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico. The Oltrepò Pavese stands out among these as one of the larger regions, known not only for its sparkling Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, but for its other wines. During our visit to Oltrepò Pavese we would be introduced to these wines.


Pavia Province's Oltrepò Pavese, home to stunning landscape, has a long tradition of wine making. Oltrepò Pavese, with at least 2000 years of wine-making history there is much to say; however the focus of this post will be on the wines. During our two day visit over cheese and meat platters, lunch, or dinner we were introduced to many excellent wines. 


Let's begin by focusing on the grape varieties grown, the styles of wines produced, and it's DOC’s and DOCG’s. 

  1. Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) is the major grape variety and it is used to make excellent sparkling wines and still red wines. The region is best know for its Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, with Cruase being its flagship wine. The list includes: Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico Cruase DOCG, and Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC.

Let's start with the sparkling wines. When we visited La Versa, a wine cooperative, we were introduced to a fabulous lineup of sparkling wines.


La Versa, Sparkling Wines

La Versa's Sparkling Wines, Oltrepò Pavese © Spaswinefood

After this impressive tasting we would continue to be introduced Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Noir sparkling wines.


Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG


CA' Di FrarA, Pinot Nero Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG 

CA' Di FrarA, Pinot Nero, Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG © Spaswinefood

When we arrived at CA' Di FrarA Winery we were greeted by the owner.

Welcome to CA' Di FrarA Winery © Spaswinefood

She took us on a brief trip to the vineyards before wine tasting.
CA' Di FrarA Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Our two day visit was filled with so many excellent sparkling wines. Torti Wines, Casaleggio was one of those.

Torti Vineyard, Casaleggio © Spaswinefood

Torti Wines produces DOC and DOCG wines and sparkling wines. We concluded our visit to this family winery with a special bottle of sparking wine. Yes, a Gran Carisma DOCG Pinot Nero Metodo Classico Dino Torti. 


Dino and Daughter, Torti Winery © Spaswinefood

Dino Torti, Gran Carisma Pinot Nero Metodo Classico DOCG © Spaswinefood


This is a winery that knows how to host visitors.


Chandelier Moment, Torti Winery © Spaswinefood


The Torti family are fabulous hosts.


When we visited Frecciarossa Winery we fell under the spell of this amazing place and its wines.

Welcome to Frecciarossa © Spaswinefood


We had a fabulous visit getting to know their wines.


Frecciarossa, Extra Brut Rosé Vino Spumante Metodo Classico Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2019

Extra Brut Rosé Vino Spumante Metodo Classico Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2019 © Spaswinefood


Extra Brut Rosé Vino Spumante Metodo Classico Oltrepò Pavese © Spaswinefood


This wine we enjoyed at the beginning lunch. Over lunch were introduced to more of Frecciarossa's excellent wines.

Lunch at Frecciarossa © Spaswinefood

Before leaving we took a walk around this stunning  property.
 Vineyard Views, Frecciarossa © Spaswinefood

Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico Cruase DOCG,


Dinner was a great way to meet producers whose wineries we could not visit.


Oltrepò Pavese Wine Producers © Spaswinefood


One of the wines served at the first dinner was a Cruase. 


La Travaglina, Julillae Cruase Metodo Classico Brut DOCG

La Travaglina Julillae Cruase Metodo Classico Brut DOCG © Spaswinefood


Our first Oltrepò Pavese winery visit was Castillo Di Luzzano where we took in the valley views, did a wine tasting at the castle, followed by the most delicious lunch.


Lunch, Castillo Di Luzzano © Spaswinefood

We were introduced to their sparkling and still Pinot Nero wines. Let's take a look at a few still wines.

Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC

There were two Pinot Nero still wines served during lunch.

Castello di Luzzano, Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018
Castello di Luzzano, Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018 © Spaswinefood

The last wine was a special Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2006 that our host selected from the cellar.

Castello di Luzzano, Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2006

Castello di Luzzano, Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2006 © Spaswinefood

Yes, the dessert was a great pairing for this Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2006.


Dessert at its BEST © Spaswinefood

Over the two days we would encounter a number of Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC wines. 


We were introduced to three Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC wines at Conte Vistarino.


Conte Vistarino (Tenuta di Rocca de Giorgi) Pinot Nero Pernice Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018

Conte Vistarino, Pinot Nero Pernice Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018 © Spaswinefood


This was one of the three Pinot Nero wines, from three different vineyards which, we tasted at Conte Vistarino, Tenuta di Rocca De' Giorgi.

Conte Vistarino, Pinot Nero Pernice Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018 Wines © Spaswinefood


A beautiful way to begin our second day was at Castello Stefanago. Here we climbed to the top of the castle to take in the stunning views. It was followed by an excellent wine tasting. 


Castello di Stefanago, Oltrepò Pavese © Spaswinefood

The wine tasting was an awesome line of wines. Amongst the wines was an Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Nero DOC.

Castello di Stefanago, Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Nero DOC

Castello di Stefanago, Pinot Nero © Spaswinefood


The above wines are examples of some of the Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico Cruase DOCG sparkling winesand Pinot Nero Della’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC still wines we tasted.


2. Bonarda wine is made from the Coatina grapes (85-100%), with other grape varieties being Barbera, Uva Rara, and Ughetta (to a maximum of 15%). It is produced as a Bonarda Dell’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC.


Two the  Bonarda Dell’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC wines we tasted during dinner on the second evening follows:

Bonarda Vino Firma, Dell’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC

Bonarda Vino Firma, Dell’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC © Spaswinefood


Bonarda dell’Oltrepò Pavese “Vigna del Povrömme” DOC 

Bonarda dell’Oltrepò Pavese “Vigna del Povrömme” DOC  © Spaswinefood


3. Barbera wine is made from Barbera grapes (85-100%) and other varietals to a maximum of 15%.  It is produced as a Oltrepò Pavese Barbera DOC. Now an example of one of these Barbera wines.


Tenute Travaglino, Barbera Campo Dei Ciliegi Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018

Tenute Travaglino, Barbera Campo Dei Ciliegi Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018 © Spaswinefood


4. Oltrepò Pavese red wines (Rosso) produced from a blend of Croatina (25-65%), Barbera (25-65%) and other varietials (Uva Rara, Ughetta and Pinot Nero) to maximum of 45%. These wines are produced as a Oltrepò Pavese Rosso DOC.


Oltrepò Pavese Rosso DOC


Tenute Travaglino, Mercantonio Oltrepò Pavese Rosso Riserva DOC 2019

Tenute Travaglino, Mercantonio Oltrepò Pavese Rosso Riserva DOC 2019 © Spaswinefood



5. Riesling wines are produced from Riesling Italico and Riesling Renano grapes. They are produced in both still (two versions: Superiore and Riserva with 24 months of bottle aging), and sparkling styles (Frizzante and Spumante Metodo Martinolti). It is produced as a Oltrepò Pavese Riesling DOC.


Over our two day visit we tasted many excellent sparkling Riesling wines.


Frecciarossa, Gli Orti Riesling, Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2020

Frecciarossa, Gli Orti Riesling, Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2020 © Spaswinefood


We would also like to note the following two other Oltrepò Pavese DOC wines (Sangue Di Giuda and   Moscatoproduced:


6. An Oltrepò Pavese Sangue Di Giuda wine from small area (the municipalities of Bosnasco, Montu Beccaria, Pieta de Giorgi and Cigonola) is made from Croatina (25-65%), Barbera (25-65%) and other grape varietials (Uva Rara, Ughetta and Pinot Nero, to maximum of 45%). This wine is only made in the Vivace (light sparkling), Frizzante (semi-sparkling), and Spumante (sparkling) styles. It is produced as a Sangue Di Giuda Dell’ Oltrepò Pavese DOC.


7. A Moscato wine produced from Moscato Bianco, with a minimum of 85% of this grape variety. The Volpara area is well suited for producing this wine. It is made in the Vivace (light sparkling), Frizzante (semi-sparkling), and Spumante (sparkling) styles. It is produced as a Oltrepò Pavese Moscato DOC.


While in Oltrepò Pavese we also tasted some wines that were not DOC's Or DOCG's, such as the following example, a Pinot Grigio. 

 CA' Di FrarA, Pinot Grigio Oltrepò Pavese DOP 2021
CA' Di FrarA, Pinot Grigio Oltrepò Pavese DOP 2021 © Spaswinefood

CA' Di FrarA, Pinot Grigio Oltrepò Pavese DOP 2021 © Spaswinefood

In conclusion, Oltrepò Pavese is an Italian wine country gem. Throughout our Oltrepò Pavese wine travels we were greeted by winery owners at the winery, or over evening dinner in some cases. Then, there were those special times when we toured the winery, and/or the vineyard. We left the Oltrepò Pavese wine region with stunning visual images etched into our wine travel memories. 

Oltrepò Pavese to the Alps, Castello di Stefanago © Spaswinefood
Towns of Oltrepò Pavese © Spaswinefood

Travelers will be impressed by the charm of Oltrepò Pavese towns and its wineries. Indeed it is so easy to fall in love with Lombardy's Oltrepò Pavese. Most important, Oltrepò Pavese wines are top tier world class wines. Oltrepò Pavese is one of Italy's best kept secrets. We so look forward to sharing more on our vine-filled explorations in Lombardy.  This WMC (Wine Media Conference) post-conference Oltrepo Pavese excursion was part of WMC22, which took place at the Hotel Acquaviva in Desenzano. Our Italian host was SCOVILO (Associazione Consorzi Vini Lombardi), an umbrella association that represents 13 different Lombardy winery associations. We invite you to join us in our wine travels in Italy at Spaswinefood and  Wine Travels with Dr. Sharon, and on Twitter and Facebook

CHEERS!

John & Sharon
October 2022
Oltrepò Pavese, Lombardy 
© Spaswinefood

Oltrepò Pavese Wine Country © Spaswinefood





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