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Monday, November 22, 2010

A journey through the Costa Rican Highlands with some culinary insights

We have made a number of trips to Costa Rica; so when we drove through Costa Rica on the Las Americas trip both the cuisine and the route were familiar. We were also happy to discover that in Costa Rica we had no problems finding pet friendly hotels (Papagayo (Casa Conde del Mar), San José (Adventure Inn), San Geraldo de Rivas (Hotel Pelicano) and San Vito). Costa Rica is perhaps the most pet friendly country. While Ewok was admired in city parks, welcomed at restaurants and hotels Amadeus keep a low profile (mostly sleeping). We were able to stay cool for the majority of the drive through Costa Rica by taking the highland routes. 

Costa Rican Cuisine while similar to neighboring countries has some foods that are unique. The common Costa Rican staples include rice, tortillas, beans  and  cheese. Typically Costa Rican food is not spicy or highly seasoned. A typical Costa Rican breakfast usually includes gallo pinto (rice mixed with black or red beans). This is often accompanied by eggs, cream or cheese, plantains and tortillas. 
Typical breakfast with sausages © Spaswinefood
It is very hard to have a meal in Costa Rica without it including rice and beans. This is certainly true at lunch and dinner time when the gallo pinto often becomes casado (married) with other foods. The result is most typical dishes served at lunch or dinner time include black beans, vegetables and meat (beef or chicken or pork) or fish. Vegetables are typical served as a side dish of the casado, or in soups and stews.  Sometimes the side dish to a casado includes a cabbage salad. On our first trip to Costa Rica John became fascinated with the Costa Rican cabbage salad that we were served at a soda (diner) in San José. He has prepared his version of the Costa Rican cabbage salad ever since that trip.
John calls his cabbage salad "Costa Rican Kimchi © Spaswinefood
Costa Rica is noted for its extensive variation in fruit. The common fruits include papaya, mango, watermelon, blackberries, lemons, guava, passion fruit, and avocado. Often fruit is served plain or as a refresco (blended fruit and ice). The refrescos are absolutely delicious. Another drink that is well known is Costa Rican coffee. Probably the most interesting coffee stop we ever made was in the Southern Costa Rican Highlands, at a small roadside restaurant that was advertised along the route. It was raining quite hard and when we stopped the owner came out with an umbrella and welcomed us. We enjoyed both the coffee and conversation.

The Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica has its own unique cuisine. Many dishes are commonly made with coconut milk and spices. You will find dishes in the Caribbean region that are not typically found in other parts, such as rondon soup.

A useful source of information on Costa Rican foods is a website called "cheapfoodhere". The website provides information on foods along with recipes, restaurant information and more. Another source is a Costan Rican youtube video that gives a complete overview of typical Costa Rican dishes.

San José has a wide range of restaurants. The restaurants range from simple soda where Costa Rican food or típico is served to fine dining and international cuisine. Outside San José restaurants tend not to be as varied.

Our first stop on the Las Americas trip was in Papagayo where we stayed for two nights at Casa del Conde.
Casa del Conde  © Spaswinefood
Jays keep a close eye on the food ... they love to steal sugar from the table © Spaswinefood
A vegetarian omelet variation of the local breakfast with tortillas on the side © Spaswinefood
John's breakfast with meat (sausages) © Spaswinefood
The extra meat on the side is for John © Spaswinefood
After we left Papagayo we journeyed through Arenal (see earlier post) and onto San José where we stayed for three nights.
Lake Arenal with Volcan Arenal in the distance  © Spaswinefood
While in San José one day we decided to drive towards Volcan Barva. Along the route to the volcano there were roadside tables with food items to buy.  We stopped at one roadside table to buy local cheese and some baked goods.

Enroute to Volcan Barva © Spaswinefood
Local cheese and baked goods at a roadside stop © Spaswinefood
If you want to purchase fresh food and do you own cooking while in Costa Rica, a great place to get it is at farmer's markets (ferias del agricultor). Farmer's markets are held on weekends in most towns throughout Costa Rica.

Our second last stop in Costa Rica was at San Geraldo de Rivas near Mount Chirripó, the highest mountain in Central America. Many people come there to hike, climb, horse back ride or to bathe in the hot springs.
Rio Chirripó  © Spaswinefood
Hotel Pelicano © Spaswinefood
Karla and Gary at Hotel Pelicano © Spaswinefood
Having Breakfast at Hotel Pelicano © Spaswinefood
A  typical breakfast with tortillas being replaced by bread © Spaswinefood
After exploring during the day, in the evenings we often relaxed with some good Chilean wine.
Waiting for dinner with some good Chilean wine © Spaswinefood
Most travel guides describe Costa Rican Cuisine as not very exciting. I disagree, Costa Rican Cuisine can be exciting. To discover this you need to explore beyond the touristy restaurants and check out the sodas, farmer's markets and other exciting food places.

After a relaxing stay in San Geraldo de Rivas we drove onto San Vito. In San Vito we stayed at a small hotel. Next day we did a hassle free border crossing into Panama at Rio Sereno. I invite you to join me in my travels in Costa Rica and elsewhere at Spaswinefood, or you can visit my travel column at the Examiner


Sharon
Tasting Memories from the Las Américas Trip
November, 2010
© Spaswinefood

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