spaswinefood: Colombia Culinary Road Trip: Cartagena to Ipiales/Tulcán

After a short flight north from Panama City we arrived in Cartagena, Colombia. We cleared customs and completed paperwork to bring our pets into Colombia (we did “lots of paperwork” in Panama before leaving). Once through customs we were off to pet friendly hotel, Los Balcones de Badillo in old city for the next nine days. Cartagena is beautiful and so it was not hard to wait there for our SUV to arrive from Panama. Our only challenge in Cartagena was adjusting to the high humidity of the tropical lowlands.

From our corner hotel room we overlooked the street with food vendors below. The street food vendors were mostly selling fruit and arepas. Arepas are a pancake shaped bread made from corn and stuffed with cheese, vegetables and meat. This youtube video demonstrates the making of Colombian arepas. Arepas and tamales are among the staples of Colombian cuisine.

I found Colombian food quite interesting. Also, no matter where I traveled in Colombia from Cartagena to Ipiales I was able to get good vegetarian food.

Getting to Know Cartagena

While in Cartagena we got to try the local cuisine. We stayed in the historic old town and from there explored the markets and some of Cartagena's many restaurants. Each morning we were awakened by wonderful smells from the bakery below; the chatter of the street food vendors getting ready to start the day.

View #1 from our balcony © Spaswinefood

Close up of view #1 © Spaswinefood

View #2 from our balcony © Spaswinefood

Close up of view #2 © Spaswinefood

Fruit and arepa vendors © Spaswinefood

Colombia grows many types of fruit and as a result fruit and juice stands are common, especially in the Caribbean region. The food vendors stayed through the day even when it rained in the afternoon.

Street scene after afternoon rain © Spaswinefood

Cartagena is noted for its fish markets. John explored this fish market one day and took the following photos:

Fish Market © Spaswinefood

Since our hotel was near Fernandez Madrid Plaza we would often dine at the local eateries around the plaza.

One of our favorite eateries © Spaswinefood

Another one of our favorite eateries © Spaswinefood

Oh look this translator does ... Portuguese © Spaswinefood

Often we would order wonderful fruit drinks, as a snack or to go with our meal.

There are so many tasty jugos naturales (natural juices) © Spaswinefood

Most often for lunch we would order the special of the day (comida corriente). It usually included soup and a main course of rice, with a small salad and meat (or fish).

Soup © Spaswinefood

Special of the day with chicken © Spaswinefood

Special of the day with beef © Spaswinefood

Ensalada caliente (Hot salad) for my lunch © Spaswinefood

My first memory of Colombian coffee is the Juan Valdez coffee advertisements; so when I saw my first Juan Valdez Cafe in Cartagena I just had to stop for coffee.

Nino, Sharon and John on coffee break © Spaswinefood

Cartagena has a number of good restaurants such as La Cocina de Carmela.

La Cocina de Carmela © Spaswinefood

We dined one night at a very nice restaurant (Da Danni) near the plaza. It had a good wine selection of Argentine and Chilean wines. We had a great conversation that night with six Colombians dining at Da Danni.

Da Danni © Spaswinefood

Gary just could not stop eating arepas!! © Spaswinefood

Of course a little wine to go with the arepa © Spaswinefood

For dinner this time I ordered pasta © Spaswinefood

There was music too at Da Danni © Spaswinefood

Another restaurant on the plaza that we enjoyed was the Tamarindo.

On one occasion we hired a taxi to tour for the day. We visited some sights in town and areas around Cartagena. Ewok toured with us. She was a big hit with the taxi drivers.

Bocagrande © Spaswinefood

Harbor view from Convent Popa © Spaswinefood

View of Cartagena from San Felipe Fort © Spaswinefood

For lunch that day the taxi driver took us to a restaurant where they served local cuisine. John ordered a fish dish and I had a soup called mote de queso. Lunch was quite good.

John enjoyed the fish he had for lunch © Spaswinefood

Our friends (Nino and Sharon who were also waiting for their vehicle to arrive from Panama) cooked us a great dinner one night.

Meeting fellow travelers © Spaswinefood

Beans, rice, potato salad and yuca © Spaswinefood

Once our SUV arrived we headed south and were pleasantly surprised by the friendliness of the police and the military. The beautiful cities, the expansive landscape, the food and the wonderful people equally impressed us, as we drove south on the PanAmerican Highway.

South on the PanAmerican Highway (Ruta 25) Through Córdoba and Antioquia Departments

Our first night on the road we stopped at a small roadside hotel in Sahagún, Córdoba Department.

A new friend took us to a restaurant where we had dinner © Spaswinefood

Gary eating a platter of . . . . . © Spaswinefood

In the morning before heading out of town we stopped for coffee.

Morning coffee © Spaswinefood

No, I do not believe it is Jaun Valdez coffee © Spaswinefood

Coffee (commonly called tinto in Colombia) is often served sweet in small plastic cups © Spaswinefood

On the road the next night we we stopped at another roadside hotel in a small town of Alto de Ventanas. Alto de Ventanas is located between Yarumal and Santa Rosa de Osos, Antioquia Department. In the morning the hotel manager served us a sweet flavored infusion before we left. We had breakfast, next door at a restaurant/bus stop. After breakfast we drove south towards Medellin, the second largest city in Colombia. We stopped for the night at a small town called Caldas, just south of Medellin (Antioquia Department). We camped at the Ecological Reserve Rio Medellin.

Rio Medellin © Spaswinefood

After having lunch at a roadside restaurant we drive to camp © Spaswinefood

Our camp site © Spaswinefood

Camp fire before diner with some good Argentine wine © Spaswinefood

Journeying through Colombia we would often see roadside fruit stands. On a number of occasions we would see piles of fruit (such as watermelon for sale). After leaving Medellin we drove towards Manizales. The area around Manizales is well known for its coffee plantations.

Road scene © Spaswinefood

Watermelons © Spaswinefood

Awesome fruit © Spaswinefood

Driving through a beautiful area en route to Manizales we stopped for lunch.

Karla is talking with her fingers © Spaswinefood

Lunch time © Spaswinefood

Ewok resting during lunch © Spaswinefood

After lunch we continued on towards Manizales and along the route we drove through some cloud forest.

Along the way we also stopped on a hill overlooking Barbosa.

Hilltop overlooking Barbosa on Ruta 25 © Spaswinefood

We bought some candy from the store on the hilltop © Spaswinefood

After a very long day's drive from Caldas, Antioquia Department we reached Chinchiná , Caldas Department (17 km. SW of Manizales). We stayed in Chinchiná at Hosteria de Café for two nights.

Hosteria de Café © Spaswinefood

In Chinchiná we took time out to visit the town and restock our food and wine supplies for the road. The owners of Hosteria de Café gave us a guided tour of their coffee plantation and the historic home on the property. We got to see the coffee beans being washed before shipment out for processing in town.

Continuing Southwards: Salento, Quindío Department Towards Ipiales, Nariño Department

After a relaxing stay in Chinchiná we drove to Salento, Quindío Department. This area is also known for its coffee plantations. We stayed at Hotel Mis Bohios near Salento. I just happened to find a video posted on youtube that describes Hotel Mis Bohios quite well.

Grounds at Hotel Mis Bohios © Spaswinefood

Yes, we have internet © Spaswinefood

After our stay we headed back to Salento. We took some time to shop for groceries and explore the plaza at Salento.

From Salento we went to Bosque Cocora where we camped for three nights.

While at the campground we took a horse trip into the mountains. The route was challenging because we traveled up a rocky canyon to the mountain top. We can back an easier route.

While at Bosque Cocora we saw some beautiful birds. Below are a few photos of some of the birds we saw.

Upon leaving Bosque Cocora we continued south to Popayán, Cauca Department where we stayed at Hotel Colonial. After a restful night and breakfast we were back on the road heading south towards Pasto, Nariño Department. Popayan is a beautiful colonial town and we regret not staying longer. During our journey from Popayán to Pasto we saw some spectacular scenery.

Once we reached Pasto we took a road about 30 km. east to Laguna de la Cocha. Upon arriving in Laguna de la Cocha (3260 meters) we searched for accommodations. We finally located pet friendly space at Chalet Guamuez.

From Pasto it was onto to Ipiales/Tulcán where we crossed into Ecuador. We drove 1131 miles in Colombia. The border crossing was smooth. We totally enjoyed the foods of Columbia!!! We totally enjoyed Colombia!!! I invite you to join me in my travels in Colombia and elsewhere at Spaswinefood, or you can visit my travel column at the Examiner.

See Examiner posts on Colombia by the author at:

1. Colombia, part one: Waiting in Cartagena
2. Colombia, part two: Pan-American Highway road trip from Cartagena to Ipiales

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Saturday, December 4, 2010

Colombia Culinary Road Trip: Cartagena to Ipiales/Tulcán

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