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Thursday, November 24, 2016

Crama Stirbey, a window onto/into the Dragasani

Crama Stirbey is reclaiming its rightful place in Romania's wine world. This winery is an important part of the Dragasani’s viticultural past. While it is rooted in the past it also a window into the future. In 2001 Prince Stirbey's granddaughter, Baroness Ilena Kripp-Costinescu and her husband Jakob Kripp began the process to re-establish the family's wine estate. Her grandfather, Prince Stirbey was one of the most significant people in Dragasani's viticultural history, with family vineyards in the area going back over 300 years. It was Prince Stirbey who was instrumental in restoring Dragasani's vineyards after destruction by phylloxera. Dragasani wines were highly regarded in Europe until the communist occupation. Spaswinefood is happy to report that Prince Stirbey wines are back. In fact during a recent #winelover trip to the Dragasani I visited Crama Stirbey.
Crama Stirbey: Window Onto the Dragasani © Spaswinefood
Prince Stirbey Wines are Back
Today's winery while steeped in history is clearly looking to the future.
Vin Stirbey, Dragasani © Spaswinefood
The Past: Vin Stirbey © Spaswinefood

While the winemaking tradition in the Dragasani was stifled under communist occupation, since the 1989 revolution the area has emerged as a significant player in the Romanian wine world. Dragasani area is buzzing with excitement, with new vineyards and wineries being established/re-established. Baroness Ilena Kripp-Costinescu and her husband Jakob Kripp have reclaimed a role in shaping the future, and so has other families with Dragasani roots. In addition newcomers have established wineries. 
View onto the Dragasani, Crama Stirbey © Spaswinefood

Crama Stirbey: Window into Dragasani's Future
While Crama Stirbey is rooted in Dragasani’s past it also has taken a leap into the future. It is a modern winery that has clearly defined its future goals. The rebirth of Prince Stirbey’s wine estate is focused on discovering (1) the terroir of each vineyard, and (2) the potential of each grape variety cultivated on the estate. Their ultimate wine making goal is to discover the spirit of the place (Genius Loci). 
Prince Stirbey Wines © Spaswinefood
Prince Stirbey Wines
What I discovered at Crama Stirbey was a sense of pride in producing top quality Dragasani wines. It was indeed special for me to spend time with the owner, Baroness Ilena Kripp-Costinescu and winemaker Oliver Bauer. The picture below also reminds me that rarely have I ever tasted wines on a table covered in a beautiful table cloth. Perhaps it was because there was food to accompany the tasting. For whatever reason the elegance of the setting did not go unnoticed by me.
Wine Tasting Elegance, Crama Stirbey © Spaswinefood
A Romanian Welcome, Crama Stirbey © Spaswinefood
Those touches of simple elegance were not wasted moments. These are moments that travel with you forever. 

Now I would like to focus on the wines poured that day. Included in the Stirbey family of wines are the following:

1. White wines: Cramposie Selectionata, Feteasca Regala, Sauvignon Blanc and Tămaioasă Romanească. 

Here are the white wines that I tasted.

(1) Prince Stirbey, Cramposie Selectionata 2015
Prince Stirbey, Cramposie Selectionata 2015 © Spaswinefood
(2) Prince Stirbey, Feteasca Regala 2015
Prince Stirbey, Feteasca Regala 2015  © Spaswinefood
Cramposie Selectionata, Feteasca Regala, and Tămaioasă Romanească are Romanian native grape varieties that I tasted earlierI did not taste any Prince Stirbey Sauvignon Blanc or Tămaioasă Romanească wines during this visit. Maybe next time.
Prince Stirbey, Tămaioasă Romanească Wine Labels © Spaswinefood

2. Red and Rosé wines: Negru de Dragasani, Novac, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Rosé Cuvée (Novac, Negru de Dragasani, Merlot)

Here are the red wines that I tasted.
(1) Prince Stirbey, Negru de Drăgăşani 2013
Prince Stirbey, Negru de Drăgăşani  2013 © Spaswinefood
 (2) Prince Stirbey, Novac 2013
Prince Stirbey, Novac 2013 © Spaswinefood
Prince Stirbey, Novac 2013 (back label) © Spaswinefood
I enjoyed very much Prince Stirbey Negru de Dragasani and Novac wines. It was my first time tasting a Novac wine. Lucky me I got to taste Novac as a still red wine and as a sparkling wine. The Novac grape variety was produced from Negru Vartos (Southern Romania) and Saperavi (Georgia) grape varieties. It was first approved in 1987. Mărculescu Mircea at the Statia de Cercetare Viti-Vinicola, Dragasani is credited with its creation.

3. Sparkling wines: White (Cramposie Selectionata) and Rosé (Novac)

Yes, we began our wine tasting that day with sparkling rosé wine.

(1) Prince Stirbey, Spumant Rosé 2011
Prince Stirbey, Spumant Rosé 2011 © Spaswinefood
Novac does indeed make a great sparkling wine.
Prince Stirbey Elegance © Spaswinefood
Spending time with the gracious Baroness Ilena Kripp-Costinescu not only gave me a sense of excitement for Crama Stirbey but also for the other wineries in the region. She is an advocate for the success of the Dragasani.
Baroness Ilena Kripp-Costinescu, Crama Stirbey © Spaswinefood
Her sense of place in the Dragasani makes her a natural ambassador for this region. 

Before leaving we did take the time to checkout the vineyard views from the veranda. The Dragasani vineyards are a happy place these days.
Late Afternoon, Crama Stirbey © Spaswinefood
Crama Stirbey Vineyards © Spaswinefood
Southern Romania's Dragasani was one the areas that I visited with #winelover friends prior to the #Winelover Hangout in Bucharest
#Winelover, Crama Stirbey © Spaswinefood
Travelers to the Dragasani need to pause here, we need to get a sense of this place. 
Late Afternoon Crama Stirbey © Spaswinefood
The heart of the Dragasani has indeed returned to its rightful place. During my visit I not only saw vineyards and wineries being established/re-established but I also gained insights into its viticultural history, native grape varieties, modern wineries and talented winemakers. The future of Dragasani is indeed promising. I invite you to join me in my travels in Romania and elsewhere at SpaswinefoodI would like to give special thanks to Razvan Stoenescu and George Wine, for being such wonderful hosts during Spaswinefood’s vine-filled explorations in Romania.

Sharon
August 2016
Dragasani, Romania
© Spaswinefood


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