A love affair with Xinomavro

Perhaps the art of story telling is not lost. It certainly not lost on Xinomavro (Ksee NOH mah vroh). Lately this Greek lady has been putting on quite a show, both at home and abroad. For those of us who love a world where smiles and sunsets brighten our day then Xinomavro is ready to make an entrance. 

Smiles, Sunset, and Xinomavro © Spaswinefood

Xinomavro, a Greek red wine, deserves all the attention that it been getting in recent years. While some call Xinomavro the king of red grapes however, for me it is the queen of red grapes. To say that the wines produced from this noble grape are diverse and/or complex is an understatement. This is not just because of the varying terroir but also wine styles. Also, let’s not forget the winemaker who leaves his/her signature upon the wine. 

In the Name of Xinomavro
Last month at the Balkan International Wine Competition (BIWC) and Festival in Bulgaria 
this Spaswinefood enthusiast had the opportunity to attend a Master's Class with Konstantios Lazarakis MW on Xinomavro wines. During a session entitled “In the name of Xinomavro” we explored Xinomavro wines from four regions of Greece (Naoussa, Goumenissa, Amyndeon, and Rapsani). There was also some discussion of modern versus traditional wine making styles. Just in case you have not meet Konstantios Lazarakis he is an amazing story teller.

Konstantios Lazarakis MW on Xinomavro wines © Spaswinefood

Northern Greece’s Naoussa, the first Greek wine region given appellation status in 1971, is home to Xinomavro, an indigenous red grape. It is required by appellation law for Naoussa PDO wines to be made from 100% Xinomavro. The excitement that Xinomavro has been generating recently is, however, largely due to an ongoing experimentation with wine styles. Clearly, there are many exciting developments in Naoussa these days. To add to this excitement other wine regions (Goumenissa, Amyndeon, and Rapsani) are also producing outstanding Xinomavro wines.

Perhaps we should take a look at the seven different Xinomavro wines that I tasted.

1. Kir Yanni Xinomavro, Naoussa PDO 2013 

Kir Yanni Xinomavro, Naoussa PDO 2013 © Spaswinefood

This Kir Yanni Xinomavro is made in a modern wine making style. During an earlier trip to Giannakohori, Naoussa I visited Kir-Yianni Winery.

Vineyard, Kir-Yianni © Spaswinefood

When we arrived at Kir-Yianni Winery the first thing that caught my attention, was the expansive vineyards surrounding the property. The setting surrounding this winery is indeed quite stunning. 

2. Thimiopoulos Xinomavro, Naoussa PDO 2012

Thimiopoulos Xinomavro, Naoussa PDO 2012 © Spaswinefood

Thimiopoulos was the first winery to start organic and biodynamic wine making of Xinomavro. They use minimum intervention in the wine making process.

3. Kokkinos Xinomavro, Naoussa PDO 2012

Kokkinos Xinomavro, Naoussa PDO 2012 © Spaswinefood

Kokkinos started first growing grapes then later they decided to make their own wine. They use a traditionalist approach to wine making.

4. Dougos Xinomavro, Rapsani PDO 2013

Doug's Xinomavro, Rapsani PDO 2013 © Spaswinefood

Dougos Winery's grapes for Xinomavro come from isolated old plots in the foothills of Mt. Olympus. They use 70% Xinomavro and 30% other grapes to make this wine.

5. Tsantali Xinomavro Grand Reserve, Rapsani PDO 2010

Tsantali Xinomavro Grand Reserve, Rapsani PDO 2010 © Spaswinefood

This Tsantali wine is also from Rapsani PDO. Tsantali uses a modern wine making style to produce its wines. Mount Olympus is where the indigenous red grapes Xinomavro, Krassato, and Stavroto are grown for the production of Tsantali's Rapsani wine.

Rapsani Vineyard © Spaswinefood

6. Harzivaritis Xinomavro, Goumenissa PDO 2013

Harzivaritis Xinomavro, Goumenissa PDO 2013 © Spaswinefood

This Harzivaritis biodynamic wine is from Goumenissa PDO. It is made using a hands-off, minimum intervention approach.

7. Alpha Estate Xinomavro Reserve, Amyndeon 2013

Alpha Estate Xinomavro Reserve, Amyndeon 2013 © Spaswinefood

This wine is also made in a modern wine making style. The grapes come from single block old vines, with a low yield. I have actually visited this block of old vine Xinomavro at Alpha Estate. 

Old Vine Xinomavro Block, Alpha Estate © Spaswinefood

Hearing about these seven very different Xinomavro wines was indeed a most insightful session with Konstantios Lazarakis MW. Later that evening at the BIWC Gala Dinner Konstantinos who chaired the wine competition and Galina Niforou, Director BIWC announced the winners.

 Konstantios and Galina, BIWC Gala Dinner © Spaswinefood

Along with the other wines poured that evening there was indeed a Xinomavro. Perhaps now I need to reminisce a little about Xinomavro.

Xinomavro: How do I love thee? Let me count the ways

Xinomavro: How do I love thee? Let me count the ways. Elizabeth Barrett Browning (1806-1866) would perhaps approve of my love affair with Xinomavro. The affair began Fall 2015 in Northern Greece. It was not in Naoussa but in Tsantali’s Rapsani vineyards where I was introduced to Rapsani vintages (1997-2005), and Rapsani Reserve (2007-2011). The Tsantali family, which has been producing wines since 1890, acquired the Rapsani Mount Olympus Vineyards in 1991. There the indigenous red grapes Xinomavro, Krassato, and Stavroto are grown for the production of Rapsani wines, a blend of these three grapes.

On the same Northern Greece wine safari I also tasted Xinomavro wines at Boutari, Ktima Kir-Yianni, Averoff and Alpha Estate. Actually Boutari Winery, Stenimahos was my first introduction to the Naoussa wine region. While at Kitma Kir-Yianni the wine tasting included Xinomavro wines from Naoussa and Amyndeon. Later at the Averoff Winery, Metsovo we were introduced to a Xinomavro from Rountina Vineyards, Naoussa. What a fabulous first-hand introduction to Naoussa's Wine Road it was. Once you have been introduced to Naoussa’s Xinomavro wines you know why “Xinomavro is on Fire”.

During our visit to the Alpha Estate in Ampelia, within the Amyndeon wine region, there were a number of Xinomavro wines in the lineup. Angelos Iatridis, winemaker and co-proprietor took us on a tour of Alpha's scenic vineyards. We did a group photo at the scenic overlook.

Earlier Tour of Alpha Estate © Spaswinefood

Is Xinomavro on Fire?

I attended an earlier Masters Class on Xinomavro at #DWCC15 in Plovdiv, Bulgaria. The class given by Yiannis Karakasis and Gregory Michailos included an amazing lineup of Xinomavro wines from Amyndeon, Naoussa, Goumenissa and Rapsani. Now the question was, "Is Xinomavro on Fire?" My answer at that time and still is "YES".

Xinomavro Masters Class, Plovdiv, Bulgaria © Spaswinefood

First Flight, Xinomavro Masters Class © Spaswinefood

First Flight (top view), Xinomavro Masters Class © Spaswinefood

Obviously everyone forms their opinion of Xinomavro based on their palate preferences. Nevertheless, there is such an amazing diversity of this wine that most will choose one, or more to be their favorite(s).

Xinomavro: How do I love thee? Let me count the ways. Yes, the wine affair will continue. Let me say, I just know that there will be a Greek wine goddess/god calling me to taste Greek wines, or to visit a vineyard soon.  Spaswinefood is looking forward to more wine country adventures along the Greek Wine Trails and elsewhere. I invite you to check out my travels at Spaswinefood. 

Sharon

June 2017

Sofia, Bulgaria

© Spaswinefood

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