A vinous affair with Serbian Tamjanika (a.k.a. Tamianka)

When I left for Serbia last October I had two wines on my short list, Prokupac and Tamjanika. Since our #winelover's visit included a Prokupac Day, then Tamjanika became the focus of my wine search. Serbia's Tamjanika is quite a charmer. I discovered this at an earlier event, the Balkans Wine Festival in Sofia, May 2017. One of the Master Classes that I attended was a session on Tamjanika, led by Rod Smith MW.

Sunset, Crossing the Nullarbor, Australia © Spaswinefood

After the above class this Spaswinefood enthusiast wrote: 

Tamianka (a.k.a. Tamjanika, and Temjanika) you are quite a charmer. This is not just because of your sweetness but also you are amazing complex, especially when you reveal your dry side. I must confess that upon meeting you images of sunsets immediately flashed through my mind.

Sunset, Ortigia Marina, Sicily © Spaswinefood

A Vinopedia article notes that Serbian winemakers make Tamjanika on the bone dry side. I believe that this is a good sign for a bright future for this wine. In fact, one of the conclusions of our discussion at the Balkans Wine Festival session was that as a dry wine, Tamianka has the potential of putting the Balkans on the wine map. Part of the rationale was that there are many outstanding sweet wines made from this grape.  However, high quality drier expressions of this wine could draw attention to the Balkans. Given the Balkans long history making this wine, it could shine on the world wine map. Tamjanika has always had a loyal following in Serbia, even during hard times, now is the time to claim its presence on the world stage.

Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Spasić Winery, Župa © Dusan Jelic

According to the Vinopedia article Serbian winemakers use a local clone of Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains to make Tamjanika. Jancis Robinson has described Tamyanka as a Bulgarian, Serbian and Russian name for Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains. She also notes that there are several variants on the spelling, such as Tamianka, Tamjanika or Tamnjanika. Wine-searcher also provides a good overview of this grape variety. 

Tamianka Time, Balkans International Wine Competition © Spaswinefood 

The Beginnings of a Tamjanika Affair

The Balkans Wine Festival session titled The Mystery of Tamianka included two Serbian wines on the list.

1. Tamjanika Chateau Kamnik 2016, Macedonia

2. Tamjanika Vinarija Lastar 2016, Serbia

3. Tamianka Bratanovi 2016, Bulgaria

4. Tamianka Terra Tangra 2016, Bulgaria

5. Anita Tamianka Rupel Winery 2016, Bulgaria

6. Golden Temjanika Chateau Kamnik 2016, Macedonia

7. Tamjanika Vinarijia Minic 2014, Serbia
8. Euphoria Temjanika Chateau Kamnik 2016, Macedonia

The session gave me an appreciation for the range of possibilities for this wine. Since my plans included a #winelover trip to Serbia in October, naturally the two Serbian wines sparked my interest. These wines were:

1. Tamjanika Vinarija Lastar 2016, Serbia

Vinarija Lastar Tamjanika 2016 © Spaswinefood

This wine's aromas were less fruity and more herbal however, on the palate it was dry.

2. Tamjanika Vinarijia Minic 2014, Serbia 

Tamjanika Vinarija Minic 2014 © Spaswinefood

This wine exhibited classic aromas for this grape variety. On my palate it had a touch of bitterness, and some spice. Some described this wine as having an Alsace style.

Tamjanika Spotting
My first encounter with Tamjanika in Serbia was on a pleasant October day on a Danube cruise.

Cruising the Danube © Spaswinefood

#Winelover Moments, Danube © Spaswinefood

We sampled a few white wines on deck while taking in the sights along the river bank. One of those wines was a Budimir Tamjanika.

Budimir Tamjanika © Spaswinefood

Cheers To Tamjanika, Danube © Spaswinefood

Later the same day, we attended a wine tasting at Matalj Winery in the Negotinska Krajina Wine Region. There were about eight wineries from eastern and southern Serbia. During the tasting, I spotted some Tamjanika wines. Let's take a look.

Vinarija Lastar

Vinarija Lastar had a nice lineup of wines available for tasting. 

Vinarija Lastar © Spaswinefood

From the wine lineup naturally, I selected a Lastar Tamjanika.

Vinarija Lastar Wines © Spaswinefood

Vinarija Lastar, Tamjanika 2016 © Spaswinefood

Indeed the same wine that I tasted earlier in Sofia was standing right in front of me. Vinarija Lastar, a young winery, is already receiving recognition for its wines.

Other Tamjanika wines that I tasted at the same event were from Bukovo Monastery, and Vinarija Raj. 

Bukovo Monastery Vinarija  

Bukovo Monastery has had a long tradition in wine making. This monastery is where the first Serbian school of wine and fruit growing was established in 1891. Perhaps I should have followed the recommendation of some of my fellow #winelover suggestions to taste their excellent Cabernet Sauvignon. Daring to be different I tasted their delightful Tamjanika. 

Bukovo Monastery, Tamjanika © Spaswinefood

Vinarija Raj 

Vinarija Raj provided an opportunity for me to taste another Tamjanika. I also tasted their Zenit 2016 and Soava 2013.

Vinarija Raj Wines © Spaswinefood

During the wine tasting, I spoke briefly with Ljubinka O'Connor, one of Vinarija Raj owners.

Winemaker (left) and Owner (right), Vinarija Raj © Spaswinefood

It was such a delight for me to meet the wine producers at Matalj Winery.

Later that evening during our #winelover visit to Rajacke Pivnice, a site of historic wine cellars, I  spotted more Tamjanika wines. 

Pimni Caprvul Vulovic © Spaswinefood

Pimni Caprvul Vulovic, the Rajacke Pivnice Wine Cellar that we visited had two Tamjanika wines in their wine display.

Rajacke Pivnice Wines © Spaswinefood

The two wines were:

Rajacke Pivnice CRNATamjanika 2016 & 2013

Rajacke Pivnice CRNA Tamjanika 2016 © Spaswinefood

Rajacke Pivnice CRNATamjanika 2013 © Spaswinefood

There also was a barrel with some Tamjanka being aged. Judging by the label date, I am assuming that it would a 2017 vintage. Perhaps the wines at this remote cellar could be described as on the rustic side. Finding the wines here, however, do indeed speak to the fact that Tamjanka is well rooted in Serbian wine culture.

Barrel of Tamjanika, Rajacke Pivnice © Spaswinefood

While I did spot most of the Tamjanika wines on that day.  Later, touring Central Serbia there were a few others. I managed to find Tamjanika, even when the wine labels were hard for me to read.

Looking for Tamjanika © Spaswinefood

Tamjanika Spotting: Vinarija Despotika, Tamjanika 2016 © Spaswinefood

So what is next in this vinous affair?

Dreaming of Tamjanika

This is where I start to imagine dining in a vineyard at sunset. During dinner we would be introduced to the many rich variations of Tamjanika. 

Waiting for Tamjanika © Spaswinefood

Yes, my search for Serbian Tamjanika continues. What is life without a vinous affair with Tamjanika. I am indeed inspired to continue the search because, like other Balkan countries, Serbia has been undergoing a rebirth in wine making. I believe there are exciting things on the horizon for Tamjanika. Maybe the best of Tamjanika is yet to come. I invite you to join me in my travels in Serbia and elsewhere at Spaswinefood,

Sharon

Belgrade, Serbia

October  2017

© Spaswinefood

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