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Monday, February 5, 2018

Let's raise a glass to Central Serbia's wine producers

While it is February I still remember an October afternoon arrival at Despotika Winery, Serbia Our #winelover adventure in Central Serbian wine country began at Vinarija Aleksandrović, a family winery, followed by a tour of the Church of St. George and the Oplenac Hill Vineyard. Here we were  introduced to the rich winemaking history on the Oplenac Wine RouteNext, it was onto the Vinarija Despotika in Vlaski Do village, near Smederevska Palanka, where we met with a group Central Serbia wine producers.
Vinarija Despotika Estate Vineyard, Central Serbia © Spaswinefood
Central Serbia Wine Country 
The host winery, Despotika has 12 hectares of vineyards, in three locations. Their estate vineyard has  stunning views of surrounding the area. Besides growing international grape varieties, like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon the winery also grows indigenous grape varieties, such as Morava and Prokupac. My assumption is that this is representative of the grape varieties grown in this wine region.
Vinarija Despotika Vineyard © Spaswinefood
While at Despotika it was a delight to meet some of Central Serbia's wine producers that afternoon. Amongst the wines offered for tasting I tasted wines from the following wineries:

1. Vinarija Art Wine

Vinarija Art Wine © Spaswinefood
Vinarija Art Wine is a small family winery focused on producing high quality Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay wines.

2. Podrum Stari Hrast
Podrum Stari Hrast © Spaswinefood
Tasting wines from Podrum Start Hrast, Zirovnica was an opportunity for me to discover their white, rosé, and red wines (Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot). A number of their wines are blends. 

3. Podrum Radovanovic
Podrum Radovanovic © Spaswinefood
Podrum Radovanovic has a special story. The wines from Podium Radovanovic are significant in that they are from Serbia's first privately owned winery. When Serbia's wine industry began its rebirth in 2000 there were 17 wineries registered, by December 2015 there were 308. A significant spark for this rebirth was ignited in 1990 when Miodrag Mija Radovanovic reestablished his grandfather's vineyard. The winery has not only focused on reclaiming Serbia's winemaking tradition but also the production of premium quality wines. While Rhein Riesling is their flagship wine the winery also produces Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Grigio; Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Prokupac wines.

4. Vinarija Janko
Janko Wines © Spaswinefood
Janko winery in Smederevo was founded in 2006. I had my first Janko wine at International Prokupac Day, a Junko Winery, Bas Prokupac, Smederevo 2016. After tasting their wines, and watching the Janko Vinarija video it will inspire you to visit.

5. Vinarija Virtus

Virtus a young winery founded in 2010 is already produces exciting wines. During the tasting I sampled two wines from Vinarija Virtus.
Virtus Marselan 2015 © Spaswinefood
Virtus Credo 2015 © Spaswinefood
Given that earlier at International Prokupac Day in Belgrade I tasted a Virtus Winery, Vitrus Prokupac 2014, I was delighted to taste their wines. Their Marselan 2015, a French international grape variety produced by a cross of Cabernet Sauvignon and Granache, was one of the few Marselan wines that I tasted in Serbia. Moreover, their Virtus Credo 2015 is an interesting blend of Prokupac, Marselan, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. This is not a common blend of Prokupac, which makes it an interesting wine. While the most common blend is 85% Prokupac and 15% other grape varieties there is a lot of experimentation with Prokupac. I look forward to hearing more about such experimentation.

6. Vinarija Despotika

The lineup of wines from Vinarija Despotika, the host winery, was quite extensive.
Vinarija Despotika Wines © Spaswinefood
Vinarija Despotika Wines © Spaswinefood
From this lineup I tasted two of their wines. I spotted a Tamjanika, which I just had to taste. I also tasted a Cabernet Sauvignon.
Vinarija Despotika, Tamjanika 2016 © Spaswinefood

Vinarija Despotika, Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 © Spaswinefood

7. Vinarija Temet

Vinarija Temet © Spaswinefood
Vinarija Temet Wines © Spaswinefood

Vinarija Temet Wines Chilling © Spaswinefood
Temet is a young winery whose story began in 2010. Getting to know a little about the wines from Vinarija Temet makes me want to know more. So as I sit here, doing some research and writing, I continue the journey I began that October afternoon. It was a most delightful afternoon discovering the wines offered by each  the wineries. This is when you wish that you could have visited each of the wineries to discover more. While throughout history there has been many challenges for Serbian wines since the 2000’s the Serbian wine industry has been revitalized. This rebirth is due to small and medium size, privately owned wineries, like those in Central Serbia, which have been established. 

#Winelovers Tour Vinarija Despotika

Central Serbia Wine Producers, Vinarija Despotika © Spaswinefood
During our visit we toured the host winery. The winery has a small wine museum, and a restaurant with a terrace. Before tasting the wines and having lunch we toured the winery with the winemaker, Veselin Despotovic. He left his successful civil-engineer career to become a winemaker. The story goes something like this. After investing a lot of effort, love and money in less than five years, the rookie winemaker created a winery, which produces amongst the best wines in the Sumadija area. Here are a few photos from our tour.
 Vinarija Despotika Wine Museum © Spaswinefood
 Wine Museum, Vinarija Despotika © Spaswinefood
After the wine museum it was onto the tank room. This modern winery not only has the latest technology for winemaking but also has an appreciation for the arts. My understanding is the winemaker's brother has created some artistic pieces, which are displayed throughout the winery. Without doubt the art did add a special touch to a winery tour.  
 #Winelovers, Vinarija Despotika Tank Room © Spaswinefood
 Vine Art, Vinarija Despotika © Spaswinefood
 Art amongst the Tanks, Vinarija Despotika © Spaswinefood
Our final stop was in the barrel room.
 Barrel Room, Vinarija Despotika © Spaswinefood
 Vinarija Despotika Wine Barrels © Spaswinefood
Here is a closer look at the barrels.
 A Closer Look Vinarija Despotika Wine Barrels © Spaswinefood
On the way out of the barrel area there is a display of wines produced at the winery.
Vinarija Despotika Wine Display © Spaswinefood
Under the October Sun
October is a most delightful time to visit Serbian wine country. The sun was sitting when we left Despotika Winery for Belgrade.
Late Evening, Vinarija Despotika Vineyard © Spaswinefood
Vinarija Despotika Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Spotting those October Prokupac vines at sunset was awesome.
Prokupac Vines, Vinarija Despotika © Spaswinefood
I stopped to take a closer look at the Prokupac vines, I could not resist.
Prokupac Vine in October, Vinarija Despotika © Spaswinefood
While at the winery I also could not help but notice the vineyard cat sleeping on the restaurant terrace in the October sun. Yes, Serbia is a perfect place for vineyard dreams under the October Sun.

Vineyard Cat, Vinarija Despotika © Spaswinefood
Our #winelover visit to Central Serbia was an insightful introduction to the winemakers from this area. While this Spaswinefood enthusiast delighted in touring Serbian wine country with 40 #winelover friends from around the world, I would like to thank those wine producers who generously shared their wines with us. Let's raise a glass to Central Serbia's wine producers. It is because of this #winelover adventure that I invite you to join me in my travels in Serbia and elsewhere at Spaswinefood,



Sharon
Belgrade, Serbia
October 2017
© Spaswinefood
Vinarija Despotika © Spaswinefood
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