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Wednesday, January 31, 2018

A Prokupac love story

Love was in the air last October when I joined a group of 40 #winelovers in Serbia. It was not until then that the Prokupac Story became real for me. This post is a #winelover story of Prokupac (Prokoopaz), a red grape, that is taking central stage in the Serbian wine world these days. The indigenous grape has been known since the middle ages in the area. For me it is hard to imagine an inquiry more exciting than getting to know Prokupac wines. Part of my inquiry included attending International Prokupac Day in Belgrade. The day began with master classes, followed by a wine tasting with the producers. 
A Prokupac Story Begins © Spaswinefood
Let the Prokupac story begin.

The Faces of Prokupac

Prokupac wines are indeed causing lots of excitement. While some producers prefer 100% Prokupac, others are blending it, with up to 15% with other grape varieties. It is also being added to Bordeaux blends to put a Serbian face on the wines. It is indeed exciting to watch winemakers investigate Prokupac’s potential. A Wines of the Balkans article by Tomislav Ivanovic provides further insights. 

I certainly enjoyed the diversity of Prokupac wines that I tasted while in Serbia. While Prokupac is primarily made as a red or rosé wine, it can also be made as a white wine. To date I have  not discovered any sparkling versions of this wine.


The first wine I tasted at the opening session of International Prokupac Day was a white wine.


Milanov Podrum, Prokupac Bello 2015
Milanov Podrum, Prokupac Bello 2015 © Spaswinefood
Later in the day I would taste rosé Prokupac wines. Overall the majority of wines I tasted were red. One activity included the search for the ideal Prokupac glass.
Looking for the Perfect Prokupac Glass © Spaswinefood
Tomislav Ivanovic, Igor Lukovic and Caroline Gilby MW lead the Master Class sessions and introduced us to the wines. 
 International Prokupac Day © Spaswinefood
Tomislav Ivanovic, International Prokupac Day © Spaswinefood
Igor Lukovic, International Prokupac Day © Spaswinefood
Besides hearing from Tomislav Ivanovic and Igor Lukovic, the local Prokupac experts, Caroline Gilby MW provided the audience further insights. She also offered some marketing advice to local producers.

After attending the morning sessions at International Prokupac Day we had an opportunity to taste more Prokupac wines. 


The Faces Behind the Wine: The Prokupac Producers
While the morning was filled with rich information about Prokupac, the afternoon was a time to meet the local producers at the Gastrobar in Belgrade. This was an opportunity to taste Prokupac wines beyond what I had been introduced to in the morning sessions. 
International Prokupac Day 2017 © Spaswinefood

Even though the Gastrobar is a small space for the producers to share their wines it some how worked. This Spaswinefood enthusiast arrived early, and despite the congestion I sampled wines from as many producers as possible.
Meeting Prokupac Producers © Spaswinefood

With determined patience I slowly worked my way around the room, sampling wines from each producer, covering about 80% of the producers. Over wine conversations I broadened my limited knowledge of Prokupac. Here are a few vignettes.

Toplički Podium 
Representatives from Toplički Podium © Spaswinefood
I was most delighted to taste wines from Toplički Podium, one of the producers from southern Serbia at the event.

Vinarija Grabak
Vinarija Grabak Wines © Spaswinefood
I tasted a number of Prokupac wines, including a Vinarija Grabak rosé.
Vinarija Grabak Rosé Wines © Spaswinefood
Vinarija Grabak is not the only winery producing a Prokupac rosé wine. I also tasted one from Budimir.


Vino Budimir Winery
Vino Budimir © Spaswinefood
During a morning sessions on aging potential we were introduced to Budimir Wines. Vino Budimir, is an exciting Balkan Wine Project. I was quite impressed with their wines that I tasted in the morning, and so it was exciting to taste their rosé wine as well.

Vinarija Yotta
Yotta Prokupac © Spaswinefood
Vinarija Yotta is a new producer that I meet at the tasting. It is always exciting to meet new producers and taste their wines.


 Vinarija Doja 
Vinarija Doja © Spaswinefood
It was such a delight for me to taste Vinarija Doja  wines. Yes, I included another rosé in my tasting.

Vinogradi Botunjac
Vinogradi Botunjac, Sveti Gral Prokupac © Spaswinefood

I often find that wine discussions lead to better understand, or alternative interpretations. Later when a Romanian friend happened to ask “Did you taste Vinogradi Botunjac wines? ” My response was “yes”, and then I showed him the pictures of the winemaker and his wines.  
Vinogradi Botunjac, Sveti Gral Prokupac 2016 © Spaswinefood
Vinogradi Botunjac, Sveti Gral Prokupac 2016 © Spaswinefood
I happened to note that he was next to another winemaker. I commented on how helpful they were to each other in sharing their wines, and making sure that I got to sample them. It was then I discovered the winemaker’s hands belong a gentlemen from Vila Vina, who took the time to share his wines with me. 

Vila Vina
Vinarija Milosavljević,Vila Vina Prokupac 2015 © Spaswinefood

Yes, those hands that communicate so well to the speaker of another language also tell a wine making story. For me it was not only the story of Vinarija Milosavljević's Vila Vina's Prokupac but also a very special story of the winemaker's hands.
Vinarija MilosavljevićVila Vina Prokupac © Spaswinefood

Vinarija Milosavljević, Vila Vina Prokupac Wines © Spaswinefood

My introduction to Prokupac wines was so much richer because of my meeting the winemakers. Moreover, meeting Prokupac wine producers was important for me to discover some of the faces behind the wines. It also reminds me of an earlier late evening encounter with a Prokupac winemaker.

Pimni Caprvul Vulovic, Rajacke Pivnice
I will never forget our late evening visit to Rajacke Pivnice, a site of some very unique wine cellars. Rajacke Pivnice Wine Cellars consists of 270 stone houses, with some dating back over 200 years ago. The construction of these unique wine cellars/drinking houses started in the latter half of the 18th century and continued until 1930's. The cellars sit on a hill 2 km from the village of Rajac. Rajac is located in east Serbia, 20 Kms south of Negotin, near the border of Bulgaria and Serbia. Somehow in my mind I knew there would be a glass of Prokupac waiting for me.
Prokupac, Rajacke Pivnice © Spaswinefood
While briefly chatting with the winemaker he told that he had finished the 2017 harvest. 
Winemaker, Rajacke Pivnice © Spaswinefood
What this winemaker shared was so meaningful to me because of Rajac's long tradition of wine making. Prokupac has deep roots in Serbia's winemaking history. For me it was exciting to meet the people behind the wines. Whether it is a winemaker who uses a more traditional wine making style, or is at the cutting edge of today's inquiry into Prokupac's future. Each brings a passion to winemaking and has a story to share. All have a role to play in the revitalization of Serbia's wine industry.
 Tasting Prokupac, Gastropub, Belgrade © Spaswinefood

Given the love for Prokupac wines the future of Prokupac in Serbia is filled with optimism. My #winelover adventures in Serbia were completely filled with such rich experiences. It was because of those rich experiences that I have better insights into today's Serbian winemaking. I invite you to join me in my travels in Serbia and elsewhere at Spaswinefood.

Sharon
Belgrade, Serbia
October 2017
© Spaswinefood
The Face and Hands of Prokupac © Spaswinefood
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