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Wednesday, August 15, 2018

Puttin' on the Metz

Just imagine a northern France road trip, which includes a stopover in a city rich in history, culture, and architecture. Our first stop, after leaving Epernay, was Metz. Metz is in the Moselle Department of France's administrative Grand Est Region. After the most amazing week in France's Champagne wine region, we were off to Germany, for a Mosel Valley vine-filled adventure. Before crossing into Germany, realizing that we needed a break, we stopped in northeastern France at Metz for lunch. Metz is located near the tripoint, where the countries of France, Luxembourg, and Germany come together. We have anticipated a routine lunch stop however, it really turned into a Puttin' on the Metz affair.
Metz Cathedral, France © Spaswinefood

Even though we were saddened to leave Champagne wine country, we were excited about the adventures that lay ahead in Germany. Just shortly after leaving Epernay we took Highway A4 in the direction towards Metz.
Onwards to Metz, France © Spaswinefood
Upon arrival in Metz we parked the rental car, and headed for the historic city center. What started out as a quick visit to city center for lunch, turned into something special. Metz was not only a perfect lunch stop but, it was also an amazing introduction to the city's rich history, culture and architecture. 

Puttin' on the Metz
Our walkabout about started out quite routine, with it later turning into something more interesting. Our first stop was at a bakery shop.
Metz Bakery, France © Spaswinefood
Further along we popped into a chocolate shop.
Metz Chocolatier, France © Spaswinefood
After picking up some pastries and chocolates we were on our way. Just around the corner, on Place d'Armes, we spotted a church. Again, while visiting a church is somewhat typical, this specific Gothic cathedral is not only quite stunning architecturally but, also has quite a rich history.

Metz Cathedral 
Metz Cathedral, Place d'Armes © Spaswinefood
We soon discovered that the church is well-known for its stain glass windows. Apparently, it has one of the largest collections of stained-glass windows in the world. This is one of the reasons why Metz has become known as the city of art and history.
Above the Mass, Metz Cathedral © Spaswinefood
The stained-glass windows were made by Gothic and Renaissance master glass makers.
Stained Glass, Metz Cathedral © Spaswinefood
The above stained glass window photo shows a very small part of the stained glass at this cathedral. Even though we only did just a quick look, given there was a mass in progress, the Metz Cathedral certainly would be worthy of further exploration.
 Metz Cathedral Info  © Spaswinefood
La Porte des Allemands 
About a 10 minute walk, over quaint cobble stoned streets from the cathedral, is another historical site. Before stopping for lunch, we walked to the medieval La Porte des Allemands (door to the Germans) by the Seille River. La Porte des Allemands, built in the 13th and 15th century, was of strategic importance for the city's fortification. Metz's location, at the confluence, or the meeting of the Moselle and Seille rivers, has played a significant role in a city, with an history of over 3,000 years. 
La Porte des Allemandes, Metz © Spaswinefood
When we arrived at La Porte des Allemandes we took time to explore. 
La Porte des Allemands, Seille River © Spaswinefood
La Porte des Allemands certainly speaks to a time when it was a turreted city gate and fortified bridge. It was used as a bridge over the Seille River 13-20th century. Today La Porte des Allemands is a remnant of the medieval walls of Metz.
Entering La Porte des Allemands © Spaswinefood
After some site seeing in the historic center it was time for lunch. We used our phones to check out lunch options. As we wandered back towards Place d'Armes, we arrived at Rue Traison (Traison Street). Here we took Rue de Traison towards the restaurant, Les Pas Sages.

Rue Traison, Graoully Dragon, and Les Pas Sages
What does Rue Traison, Graoully Dragon and Les Pas Sages have in common?  Come with me and find out.
Rue de Traison, Metz © Spaswinefood
As we entered Rue de Traison, besides seeing a sign explaining the street's history, we came face to face with Graoully Dragon suspended in mid-air. The Graoully Dragon is a symbol of the city. According to legend the Graoully Dragon lived in the arena of the Roman amphitheater in Metz. So as the legend goes, Saint Clement of Metz fought the dragon and won, which symbolizes the triumph of Christianity over Paganism.

We continued on down Rue de Traison towards the restaurant, Les Pas Sages.

Graoully Dragon, Rue de Traison © Spaswinefood
As we walked down the cobbled stone street the dragon came into view.
Onward to the Graoully Dragon © Spaswinefood
Yes, the dragon was suspended in mid-air in front of the restaurant's location. How cool was that we discovered a Metz legend.
A Metz Legend © Spaswinefood
Below the Dragon, Metz © Spaswinefood
There we were at Les Pas Sages, the restaurant where we had decided to have lunch.
Menu, Les Pas Sages © Spaswinefood
We chose to order a grilled vegetable salad and a polenta dish for lunch.
Grilled Vegetable Salad, Les Pas Sages © Spaswinefood
Polenta & Sausage, Les Pas Sages  © Spaswinefood
Given that we would need to travel onto our Mosel Valley destination my wine choice for lunch was a local rosé wine. Regrettably, we did not have the time to checkout this wine region. While wine making in this area dates back to ancient times, the Lorraine region is not the most renown these days. The glorious days of Lorraine vineyards came to an end with the arrival of Phyllorea, plus other factors, contributed to its decline. Rebirth of wine making here has been encouraged since 1980. Today this region certainly has wines, and wineries worth exploring.

After a relaxing lunch at 
Les Pas Sages we left via 
Rue de la Princerie, Metz © Spaswinefood
As we walked down Rue de la Princerie I took one last look back at the Graoully Dragon.
Graoully, Rue de Traison, Metz © Spaswinefood
I could not help think about how insightful our lunch stop in Metz was, as we walked back to our rental car to continue onwards. This traveler knows so well the uniqueness of this Puttin' on the Metz experience. After leaving Metz we continued onto Trier, Germany, where our next adventure awaitedThis post is part of a series that I have written on our #winelover adventures in France and Germany. I invite you to join me as we continue travels in the Mosel Valley, Germany and elsewhere at Spaswinefood.


Sharon
Mosel Valley, Germany
May 2018
© Spaswinefood
Panorama of Metz Cathedral © Spaswinefood

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