spaswinefood: Romancing those unique grape varieties: Vignettes from wine country travels around the world

Call me a romantic for, of all my wine country travels, it is the unique grape varieties that catch my attention. Whether my wine travels takes me to Bulgaria, Greece, Georgia, Romania, Serbia, Turkey or North America increasingly, I find myself drawn to the indigenous and local grape varieties. Sure, I love an excellent Chardonnay, Cabernet, Merlot, or a fantastic wine blend that we all know so well. Of course, there are amazing rosé wines. Let me not forget the best of bubbles from Champagne and elsewhere. Equally, I love the best of those amazing sweet wines, such as Port, Madiera, and Tokaji. During my wine travels I have observed a growing interest in wines made with native grape varieties. I have seen this in Bulgaria, Georgia, Greece, Romania, Serbia, and Turkey where there has been a long tradition of working with indigenous grapes. Countries, where there is a long tradition of working with indigenous grapes, are grape-fully inspiring to me.

Prokupac Memories, October 2017 Serbia © Spaswinefood

Let me share some vignettes on unique grape varieties from Bulgaria, Greece, Georgia, Romania, Serbia, Turkey, and the United States.

Bulgaria

These days Bulgarian winemaking, with its modern state of art wineries, produces high quality wines from indigenous grape varieties like Mavrud, Melnik, Rubin, Gamza, Dimyat, and Red Misket. In addition, international grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc are also widely planted. During my Bulgarian wine travels I have enjoyed, not only getting to known its wine regions, but also the wines produced from its indigenous grape varieties. Here is a journey into that unique wine world.

Château Burgozone, Danube Plain, Bulgaria © Spaswinefood

Bulgaria is an area with a long tradition of winemaking. Wines from Ancient Thrace date back six thousands years. Cult of the god of wine “Dionysus” actually originated here. Thrace, an important geographical and historical region in Southeast Europe, is split among Bulgaria, Greece, and Turkey. The region is bounded by the Balkan Mountains to the north, the Aegean Sea to the south, and the Black Sea to the east. It includes southeastern Bulgaria (Northern Thrace), northeastern Greece (Western Thrace), and the European part of Turkey (East Thrace).

In the 1980's Bulgaria was one of the largest wine producers in the world. Following the collapse of communism wine production declined. As state run wineries were privatized and new wineries were established the rebirth of modern Bulgarian wine making began. These days Bulgaria's wine industry is buzzing with excitement. Now is the time to discover the wine regions of Bulgaria and discover some of its local wines (see article).

Georgia

The Republic of Georgia's wine culture is rich in tradition. It is one of the oldest producing wine regions in the world. However, it is not every day that you get an opportunity to experience the rich wine and food traditions of a unique wine producing country, like Georgia. During a press trip to Georgia in 2012 sponsored by the Georgian Wine Association, Spaswinefood had the opportunity to experience first hand the wonderful Georgian hospitality centered around wine making and cuisine.

Georgian Hospitality at Shumi © Spaswinefood

Discovering Qvevri Wine Making
Qvevri (kvevri) wine making is a traditional wine making process used in Georgia. What is unique to this wine making process is the use of a large earthenware vessel (qvevri) in which the wine is made. Basically this natural wine making process involves the use of large clay pots, lined with beeswax that is buried in the ground.

Our first stop in Tbilisi was the Georgian National Museum where we toured the museum. One of the visit highlights for me was seeing a display of historical qvevris. Throughout our visit to Georgia we saw how qvevris are used in today's wine production.

Qvevri display at Georgian National Museum, Tbilisi © Spaswinefood

While at the Alaverdi Monastry we were treated to both a glimpse into the past, and provided with an overview of today's modern wine making.

Display of qvevris at Alaverdi Monastry © Spaswinefood

At Schuchmann Wines we also saw how qvevris are used in modern wine making.

Qvevri wine making, Schuchmann Wines © Spaswinefood

Apparently, there is a difference in opinion as to whether wine production originated in Georgia, Turkey or Armenia. In any event, DNA analysis shows all European grape varieties have their origin in Turkey, Georgia or Armenia. Alice Feiring describes Georgian wine making as wine of the ancients. This is certainly true for Georgia's qvevri wine making tradition. Qvevri wine making dates back to 4000BC, with viticulture in Georgia dating back to 6000BC. Qvevris are widely use today in Georgian wine making alongside modern wine making techniques.

Georgian Feast or Supra

I discovered first hand in Georgia not only qvevris wine making but also, the rich tradition of the Georgian feast, or supra. Georgians truly know how to celebrate with wine and food. In fact, it is hard to find the words to describe those rich, intense experiences that I had in Georgia. While in Georgia I experienced a number of Georgian feasts that involved food and wine. Georgian cuisine has been described as being influenced by Middle Eastern and European traditions. It has been said that Georgian food and wine are best observed at a feast or supra (a traditional banquet feast). Part of the Georgian tradition is to have a toastmaster at such gatherings. Usually a toast is accompanied by a song or verse. Needless to say, we got to meet some amazing people and drink some amazing wines produced in qvevri and non-qvevri styles. Some of the highlights included:

1. Laursab's Azarpesha Restaurant

Lunch at Laursab's Restaurant © Spaswinefood

Laursab toasted and sang during lunch © Spaswinefood

Our first lunch in Georgia was at the Azarpesha Restaurant. Over lunch we were introduced to the amazing Georgian tradition of toasting by Laursab.

2. Chateau Mukhrani

Chateau Mukhrani © Spaswinefood

Chateau Mukhrani Saperavi 2008 © Spaswinefood

Chateau Mukhrani Reserve Du Prince 2007 © Spaswinefood

While at Chateau Mukhrani we tasted some impressive wines during lunch. Amongst the wines I tasted Chateau Mukhrani's Saperavi 2008 and Reserve Du Prince 2007 were excellent .

3. Bagrationi

Bagrationi Sparkling Wine © Spaswinefood

During our visit to Bagrationi Winery we tasted a variety of sparkling wines. Bagrationi has been producing wines since 1882.

4. Tasting Cognac Georgian Style

Food Offerings, Sarajishvili Cognac © Spaswinefood

We visited the Sarajishvili Winery known for its brandy production. After an introduction explaining the history of the winery we were treated to a barrel sample. This was followed by a Sarajishvili Cognac tasting. The cognac tasting was accompanied by an amazing offering of treats.

5. Lunch Time Feast at Shumi

A Georgian Welcome at Shumi © Spaswinefood

There was no end to the fabulous Georgian cuisine that we were introduced to while in Georgia. At Shumi Wine Company in Tsinandali, Telavi region, Georgia we had lunch, sampled wines and listened to Georgian traditional polyphonic songs.

Getting to taste wine right out of the qvevri © Spaswinefood

6. Feasting at Chateau Mere

Dinner, Chateau Mere © Spaswinefood

Our first night at Chateau Mere we sampled more wine with dinner. Of course these was entertainment to go along with the feasting. It was a delightful evening.

7. Traditional Dinner at Tsinandali Palace

The goodbye feast at Tsinandali Palace © Spaswinefood

The traditional dinner at Tsinandali Palace is what I would describe as a "goodbye feast". Again there was wine, food and entertainment.

The above wine and food highlights are but a brief overview of the hospitality that I experienced in Georgia. It was a fabulous introduction to the Kartli and Kakheti wine regions with an immersion of Georgian hospitality. A visit to Georgia is a must for hard-core wine enthusiasts.

Greece

My wine soul is drawn to Greece, home to over 300 indigenous grape varieties. Greek wines with their impressive history are exciting to explore. In fact Greek wines made with indigenous grape varieties are amongst the most exciting. White grapes with names like Assyrtiko and Malagousia. Then there are the red grapes like Agiorgitiko, Xinomavro, Limnio, and Stavroto, just to name a few. While there is so much I have come to appreciate I will briefly comment on Assyrtiko and Xinomavro.

Assyritko

Assyrtiko, a white grape indigenous to Santorini, is arguably Greece's most iconic white wine grape variety. It is a wine with great diversity. Grown in the arid volcanic-ash-rich soil of Santorini and other Aegean islands, it is also found in other regions of Greece, planted as far north as Drama in Greek Macedonia. It is a versatile grape variety, with wines being made in a multitude of styles, from fresh, mineral driven white wines to rich, nutty dessert wines known as Vinsanto.

Discussing Santorini Assyrtiko Vines © Spaswinefood

For sure Santorini Assyrtiko vines are amongst the most interesting. On the average these vines can reach 70 years old, and some of the wines are amongst the oldest in Greece. Growers have adapted to the growing conditions on the island by training their vines into "baskets", winding the canes into wall around the fruit, providing shelter from strong winds. Since advanced vine age tends to effect wine quality because yields are reduced, enhancing Assyrtiko's potential to make some very complex wines.

Santorini Assyrtiko Vines Before Blooming © Spaswinefood

What stuck with me was that the Assyrtiko vines on Santorini are some of the oldest vines in Greece.

Xinomavro

Xinomavro: How do I love thee? Let me count the ways. Elizabeth Barrett Browning (1806-1866) would perhaps approve of my love affair with Xinomavro. The affair began Fall 2015 in Northern Greece. It was not in Naoussa but in Tsantali’s Rapsani vineyards where I was introduced to Rapsani vintages (1997-2005), and Rapsani Reserve (2007-2011). The Tsantali family, which has been producing wines since 1890, acquired the Rapsani Mount Olympus Vineyards in 1991.

It was like a dream come true to travel the Wine Roads of Northern Greece. Our Rapsani Wine Adventure included a vineyard visit to learn about Rapsani wines. For me no wine tasting room experience can compare to a visit to a wine region. This wine adventurer's burning desire to learn more about these wines certainly hit a new high that day.

Tasting Rapsani © Spaswinefood

Rapsani's vineyards on the slopes of Mount Olympus is where the indigenous red grapes Xinomavro, Krassato, and Stavroto are grown for the production of Tsantali's Rapsani wine. Rapsani is a blend of these three grapes.

Rapsani Vineyard © Spaswinefood

Even though the grapes had already been picked it was indeed special to take in the vineyard views on that autumn day.

Autumn, Rapsani Vineyard © Spaswinefood

On the same Northern Greece wine safari I also tasted Xinomavro wines at Boutari, Ktima Kir-Yianni, Averoff and Alpha Estate. Actually Boutari Winery, Stenimahos was my first introduction to the Naoussa wine region. While at Kitma Kir-Yianni the wine tasting included Xinomavro wines from Naoussa and Amyndeon. Later at the Averoff Winery, Metsovo we were introduced to a Xinomavro from Rountina Vineyards, Naoussa. What a fabulous first-hand introduction to Naoussa's Wine Road it was. Once you have been introduced to Naoussa’s Xinomavro wines you know why “Xinomavro is on Fire”.

During our visit to the Alpha Estate in Ampelia, within the Amyndeon wine region, there were a number of Xinomavro wines in the lineup. Angelos Iatridis, winemaker and co-proprietor took us on a tour of Alpha's scenic vineyards. We did a group photo at the scenic overlook.

Earlier Tour of Alpha Estate © Spaswinefood

Is Xinomavro on Fire?

I attended a Masters Class on Xinomavro at #DWCC15 in Plovdiv, Bulgaria. The class given by Yiannis Karakasis and Gregory Michailos included an amazing lineup of Xinomavro wines from Amyndeon, Naoussa, Goumenissa and Rapsani. Now the question was, "Is Xinomavro on Fire?" My answer at that time and still is "YES".

Xinomavro Masters Class, Plovdiv, Bulgaria © Spaswinefood

First Flight, Xinomavro Masters Class © Spaswinefood

First Flight (top view), Xinomavro Masters Class © Spaswinefood

Obviously everyone forms their opinion of Xinomavro based on their palate preferences. Nevertheless, there is such an amazing diversity of this wine that most will choose one, or more to be their favorite(s).

Each time I returned to Greece my wine world is filled with amazing grape adventures. Greece is at the top of my wine list for its unique grape varieties. In Athens Cinque Wine Bar is a must for wines made with indigenous grapes.

Romania

My visits to Romania has provided me amazing wine adventures. Anyone touring Romania wine country will quickly discover that Romania is under going a wine revolution. I first came to Romania in 2016 to explore wine country, returned in 2017, and again in 2018. Each visit I am more, and more impressed by Romanian wines, produced from both indigenous grape varieties (like Fetească Alba, Fetească Regala, Fetească Negra, and Negru de Drăgășani), and international grapes (like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot). Key factors behind this revolution are (1) the use of modern winemaking technology, (2) talented winemakers, and (3) overall growth in the wine industry throughout the country.

#Winelover Evening, Timisoara © Spaswinefood

The fact that Romania's wines are receiving attention is not surprising given Romania's wine history. Romania, one of the oldest viticultural regions in the world, has had a long tradition of wine making. Wine making started in Romania when the Greeks arrived from the Black Sea. Like many Eastern European countries that tradition was stifled under communist occupation. Romania was used to provide cheap low quality wine to meet the demands of the Soviet Union. After the 1989 revolution the production of quality of wines became a focus. Romania is now one of the 6th largest wine producers in Europe, and one of the largest in the world. Today Romania is an emerging star in the wine world.

My 2018 travels to the Crisana and Dealu Mare wine regions, attendance at the Rovinhud Wine Show, and participation in wine events in Bucharest included:

Crisana wine country visit November 14-16, 2018 trip was immediately after a #Winelover Hangout in Budapest, Hungary on the 13th November. When the tour ended some #winelovers continued onto the Rovinhud Wine Show, Timisoara.
Rovinhud Wine Show 2018 November 16-18, 2018, Timisoara (5th Rovinhud wine show)
Dealu Mare wine country visit November 19-22, 2018
Bucharest #Winelover Events, November 22-24, 2018 included attending the GoodFair Wine Show 2018, #Winelover Hangout, and the official launching of #Winelover Romania.

Bucharest's engaging wine bar scene includes wine bars offering Romanian wines made with indigenous grape varieties. Romanian wines made with native grape varieties are very attractive, not just because of their obscurity, but also because the wines are good. Worldwide wine bars have increased in popularity. This popularity is not only because they offer a more sophisticated atmosphere, but also they offer better wine choices. This Spaswinefood enthusiast recommends that visitors to Bucharest look for #Winelover Romania Affiliated wine bars where you will find excellent wines made with native grape varieties.

Corks Cozy Bar, Bucharest © Spaswinefood

November 2018 #Winelover Romania was launched, by naming the first two #Winelover Romania Affiliated Wine Bars. These affiliated wine bars were recognized because they offer wines made with native Romanian grape varieties. Romania is one the world's largest wine producers, and the 5th largest in Europe. Romania's wine success has been recognized for both international grape varieties, such as (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot . . .), and indigenous grape varieties, such as (Fetească Neagra, Fetească Alba, Fetească Regala, and Tămâioasă Românească). Home to 14 native grape varieties this makes Romanian wines exciting to explore. Sure there are many places where you go for good wines however, there are those special places where you will discover something richer and unique. Bucharest wine bars serving wine made with indigenous grapes fits that later category. Hence Romania tops my list for wine bars promoting wines made with indigenous grapes.

Turkey

Turkey is well known as a popular tourist attraction. Each year many tourists come to Turkey to visit the spectacular archaeological ruins. When I visited Turkey in it was under going a rebirth in its wine industry. There are 800 genetically identified indigenous grapes known from Turkey. Spaswinefood has great memories of Turkey. Memories of discovering some of the best of Turkey's wines. Before my visit to Turkey I remember reading Tom Brosnahan's travel website, which gives an overview of Turkish wine regions. I also remember him noting that two vineyards, namely Kavaklidere and Doluca vineyards in mid 1900's, help set the standards for Turkish wine. During our visit to Turkey last fall I saw lots of evidence that this was the case. Still it was not until #EWBC12 conference that I tasted some of the best of Kavaklidere wines.

Wine #1 Kavaklidere (top left), Narince Chardonnay 2011 © Spaswinefood

Kavaklidere Wine at the Gala Banquet

As we traveled throughout Turkey scribbled in my notes of Turkish wines to taste was Kavaklidere wines. Finally, Kavaklidere wines were on the list of wines to be tasted at the EWBC Gala Banquet. One of the courses on the banquet menu was Crispy Duck, paired with the following two wines:

1) Suvla's SUR 2010 (a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot), and

2) Kavaklidere's Prestige Öküzgözü 2009 from Öküzgözü, Elaziğ.

Kavaklidere's Prestige Öküzgözü 2009 was an excellent choice. The Prestige Öküzgözü 2009 was included in a side-by-side tasting with Suvla's SUR 2010 (a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot). While in Turkey it was exciting for me to taste red wines made from the indigenous grape variety Öküzgözü. Other Turkish wineries featured at the Gala Banquet that evening included Doluca Winery, Kayra Winery, LA Wines, Pamukkale Winery, Selendi Winery, Sevilan Winery, Suvla Winery, Yazgan Winery and Vinkara Winery.

Kavaklidere Wine at the Grand Terroir Tasting

A Kavaklidere wine was one of the two Turkish wines featured as part of the Grand Terroir Tasting at #EWBC12. It was a Kavaklidere, Narince Chardonnay 2011.

The Grand Terroir Wine Tasting at #EWBC © Spaswinefood

Grand Terroir Tasting Sheet © Spaswinefood

During the Grand Terroir tasting the impressive wine lineup included the following list:

The Grand Terroir Tasting with Atkins and Metcalfe © Spaswinefood

What the wines from the Eastern Mediterranean have in common is a rich wine history and unique geogaphy, or in essence a Grand Terroir. In fact Turkey can be described as the "Heart of the Grand Terroir". Southeastern Anatolia grape origins date back to 9000BC. There are 800 genetically identified indigenous grapes known from Turkey. The Turkish wine industry has undergone rebirth. The rebirth of Turkey's wine industry includes wines made from indigenous and international grapes. Two Turkish wines selected for the Grand Terroir tasting were:

1) Kavaklidere, Narince Chardonnay 2011 (wine #1 on tasting sheet) and

2) Sevilen, Plato Kaleck Karasi 2011 (wine #6 on tasting sheet).
Both wines were excellent representatives of Turkish wines. I particularly liked the Kavaklidere, Narince Chardonnay 2011. What made this white wine special for me was that the blend included the indigenous Narince grape. I must admit I have developed a special liking for Turkey's indigenous grapes. I am totally convinced that with world-wide exposure Turkish wines will become popular. My best guess is that there is a special niche in the wine industry for wines made from indigenous Turkish grapes.

Tasting Kavaklidere Wine

I also tasted some awesome Kavaklidere wines at a tasting session following the Grand Terroir. Two Kavaklidere wines that I tasted were Boğazkere 2004 and Kalecik Karasi 1995.

Kavaklidere Boğazkere 2004 and Kalecik Karasi 1995 © Spaswinefood

I loved these two special wines, with their refined elegance. Special thanks to a Turkish sommelier that brought them to my attention. They were indeed a special treat. While in Turkey I tasted not only great wines derived from the popular international grapes and Narince but from other indigenous Turkish grapes, such as Öküzgözü, Boğazkere and Kalecik Karasi.

Serbia

Just as some cellar wines others cellar memories of wine country travels. October 2017, when the Prokupac vines were in full autumn colors, this Spaswinefood enthusiast toured Serbian wine country. My #winelover vine-filled adventure included 1-2) touring eastern and central Serbian wine country, 3) celebrating International #ProkupacDay, and 4) attending a gala banquet with northern Serbia wines.

Prokupac Vine in October © Spaswinefood

What follows are memories of those #winelover explorations in Serbia.

1. Eastern Serbia
It was with great excitement and anticipation that our we set out for the Danube. After leaving Belgrade we traveled for about three hours before boarding the Aquastar Maxim for a Danube cruise. While we cruised we ate lunch, and sampled a few wines. Later, we would meet some of the local Serbian wine producers, and taste their wines. Our day ended with a visit to the historic wine cellars at Rajacke.

The Danube

Danube River © Spaswinefood

It was a pleasant day for a Danube cruise.

Cruising the Danube © Spaswinefood

#Winelover Moments, Danube © Spaswinefood

We sampled a few white wines on deck while taking in the sights along the river bank. Later, we enjoyed lunch below deck.

Danube Moments © Spaswinefood

Tasting Eastern and Southern Serbian Wines
After disembarking we traveled onto Matalj Winery in the Negotinska Krajina Wine Region. Here we did a walk around tasting of wines from eastern and southern Serbia.

Wine Tasting, Matalj Winery © Spaswinefood

During the tasting I was delighted to meet the wine producers, such as Andrianna Andrijeska, owner and winemaker at Vinarija Izba Jovanovic, a boutique wine producer. She shared her first vintage of Merlot.

Andrianna Andrijeska © Spaswinefood

It was exciting for me to taste this Merlot wine made with minimum intervention.

Vinarija Lastar's lineup of wines included a Lastar Tamjanika. I went to Serbia with the idea of focusing primarily on wines made from local, or Balkan grape varieties. One of grapes on my list was Tamjanka.

Vinarija Lastar © Spaswinefood

From their wine lineup naturally I selected a Lastar Tamjanika.

Vinarija Lastar Wines © Spaswinefood

It was a pleasure to meet some of the faces behind today's Serbian wines.

Faces of Serbian Wines, Vinarija Vimid © Spaswinefood

Rajacke Pivnice Wine Cellars
Perhaps being in Serbian wine country on Friday 13^th added to our late evening visit to Rajacke Pivnice, a site of some very unique wine cellars. Rajacke Pivnice Wine Cellars consists of 270 stone houses, with some dating back over 200 years ago. The construction of these unique wine cellars/drinking houses started in the latter half of the 18th century and continued until 1930's. The cellars sit on a hill 2 km from the village of Rajac. Rajac is located in east Serbia, 20 kms south of Negotin, near the border of Bulgaria and Serbia.

My introduction to Rajacke Pivnice Cellars was in the dark. Our hosts questioned us at least twice if we should visit the nearby cellars in the dark. Each time the group responded, “YES”. The end result was we walked 3 km each way in the dark, mostly uphill to this historical site. After walking in the dark for about 2 km uphill from Rajac we arrived at the entrance to the cellar area. The good news is that we were able to visit a Rajacke Pivnice wine cellar. After a brief walk through the cellar area there was one cellar door opened.

Rajacke Pivnice Cellar Door © Spaswinefood

Rajacke Pivnice cellars were established as a secondary settlement, or compound close to the residents permanent homes in Rajac. The houses at Rajacke Pivnice are unique in that they were built without chimneys. Historical records suggest that during the Serbian migration from Kosovo and Metohija newcomers established villages, like Rajac. The Rajac area is known for its vineyards that date back to Roman times. White wines produced from this area include semijon, smederevka, and bagrina. Whereas the red wines include prokupac, crni burgundac, and gama.

Pimni Caprvul Vulovic © Spaswinefood

Here we had the opportunity to meet the winemaker, and to sample some of his wines.

A Rajacke Pivnice Cellar © Spaswinefood

Besides taking a closer look at the cellar I also sampled a few wines. Somehow in my mind I knew there would be a glass of Prokupac waiting for me.

Prokupac, Rajacke Pivnice © Spaswinefood

Yes, we did visit a cemetery next to the cellars. It was after all Friday 13^th.

2. Central Serbia

Our adventure in Central Serbian wine country began at Vinarija Aleksandrović in Vinča, a family winery, followed by a tour of the Church of St. George and the Oplenac Hill Vineyard. After tasting some awesome Aleksandrović wines we were introduced to the rich history of winemaking along the Oplenac Wine Route. Later we traveled onto Vinarija Despotika where we met with a group Central Serbia wine producers.

#Winelovers, Vinarija Aleksandrović © Spaswinefood

The Oplenac Vineyards in Vinča have a long history of winemaking, dating back to ancient times. When the Romans cultivated vines here the area was known as Vincea; in the Middle Ages it was called Vinica. The area thrived during the reign of King Peter 1 and King Alexander 1 who both promoted Oplenac wines throughout Europe. The Aleksandrović family has been involved in wine making here for over a century. They collaborated with royal viticulturists and cellar masters. Their great grandfather helped establish the Vinča Winemaking Cooperative in 1903. Later wine production in this area met many challenges and went into decline. However, when the royal cellar master, who migrated to Canada after WWII, discovered that the Aleksandrović family was establishing a winery he sent the recipe for the Trijumf blend. Today the winery utilizes the latest advances in wine making technology while still highly valuing the winemaking traditions of this region.

Aleksandrović Vineyards © Spaswinefood

Vinarija Aleksandrović, established in 2000 plays a leading role in promoting Serbian wines, both at home and abroad. Next, it was onto the Vinarija Despotika in Vlaski Do village, near Smederevska Palanka. Here we met with a group Central Serbia wine producers.

Vinarija Despotika Estate Vineyard, Central Serbia © Spaswinefood

The host winery, Despotika has 12 hectares of vineyards, in three locations. Their estate vineyard has stunning views of surrounding the area. Besides growing international grape varieties, like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon the winery also grows indigenous grape varieties, such as Morava and Prokupac. It was such a delight to meet some of Central Serbia's wine producers that afternoon at Despotika.

3. International Prokupac Day
Most would not travel halfway around the world to taste a wine. Perhaps that is because you have yet to taste Prokupac wines. Prokupac (Prokoopaz), a red grape that is taking central stage in the Serbian wine world, is indigenous grape, which has been known since the middle ages in this area. International Prokupac Day 2017 celebrations in Belgrade was a perfect day to discover some of the best Prokupac wines.

International Prokupac Day © Spaswinefood

The day that began with master classes. Tomislav Ivanovic, Igor Lukovic and Caroline Gilby MW lead these sessions.

Prokupac Producers

While the morning was filled with rich information about Prokupac, the afternoon was a time to meet the local producers at the Gastrobar in Belgrade. This was an opportunity to taste Prokupac wines beyond what I had been introduced to in the morning sessions.

Meeting Prokupac Producers © Spaswinefood

4. Gala Banquet with Northern Serbian Wines

Our last evening in Serbia over 40 #winelovers from around the world gathered for a gala banquet. Discovering wines from Serbia's Vojvodina wine region over dinner at The Square Restaurant, Square Nine Hotel, Belgrade was indeed a gala affair. Our Serbian hosts had chosen an excellent location,The Square, one of the top restaurants in Belgrade for this event.

Of course the setting was just perfect for such a gala affair with #winelover friends.
When #winelovers arrived, the wines were beautifully displayed on a table at the center of the restaurant. Special thanks to the restaurant's sommelier for a stunning presentation of the wines.

The northern Serbian province of Vojvodina is know for its rich agricultural lands, which makes up 84% of the province. Wine-searcher lists 29 wine producers in Vojvodina province. We were most fortunate that our #winelover gala banquet included an excellent representation of these producers. Clearly our Serbian #winelover adventures were completely filled with rich experiences.

North America

Before European grape vines were introduced to North America we had native grapes. Most of the wines we drink are produced from these Vitis vinfera wine grapes that were introduced. Hybrid grapes on the other hand are grapes that are a cross between vinifera varieties and the more disease-resistant American varieties. Native grape varieties and their hybrids are starting to become more attractive, not just because of their obscurity, but also because wines made from these grapes are good.

During my wine travels I have observed a growing interest in wines made with native grape varieties in Europe (Bulgaria, Georgia, Greece, Romania, Serbia, and Turkey) where there has been a long tradition of working with indigenous grapes. Recent wine travels to Virginia and Texas wine have left me grape---fully surprised with the increasing use of native grapes in North America. Sure international grape varieties are the most popular; however, increasing American hybrid grapes are playing a greater role. Carlo Devito, who writes on East Coasts wineries, notes that wine snobs have often looked down on wines made with hybrid grapes. Devito argues that tendency to blame the grape and not the winemaker no longer makes sense. It also does not make sense to me, given that both knowledge and technology has evolved to make good wines from hybrid grapes.

A Wine Folly article describes six of the hundreds of identified native grape varieties. She notes that wines made from grapes like Chambourcin, Vidal Blanc, and others hybrids are starting to make waves in areas that have cold winters. Here are the hybrid grapes that I encountered in recent wine travels to Virginia and Texas:

1. Chambourcin
During late June 20 visit to Viginia I tasted a number wines made with Chambourcin, a French-American hybrid grape created by Joannes Seyve (1900–1966), a French biochemist. This hybrid variety grows well in the Midwest and Northeast United States. My first example is The Winery at Bull Run, Estate Rosé of Chambourcin, which is a rosé wine made with Chambourcin grapes.

The Winery at Bull Run, Estate Rosé of Chambourcin 2018

I have tasted many rosé wines made in many different styles however, not many made with this grape variety; hence it was especially exciting for me to taste a rosé wine made with Chambourcin grapes. Another Virginia rosé wine made with the same grape is a Effingham Rosé Wine.

Effingham, Rosé 2018

It was especially exciting for me to taste those Virginia rosé wines made with Chambourcin grapes. This grape is also used to make red wines.

2. Vidal Blanc
Vidal Blanc is one the grape varieties derived from the native grape variety Vitis rupestris. Vidal Blanc has adapted well to Virginia. Here are two examples:

The Winery at Bull Run, Vidal Blanc 2017

Paradise Springs Winery of Clifton, Vidal Blanc 2017

3. Traminette

In this case French biochemist Joannes Seyve's variety Joannes-Seyve 23.416 was crossed with Gewürztraminer to produce the Traminette grape. This French American hybrid was created by Herb C. Barrett ca. 1965, University of Illinois, Urbana/Champaign. This grape is known for its excellent wine quality, good productivity, resistance to fungal diseases, and has cold hardiness superior to its acclaimed parent, Gewürztraminer.

Effingham, Traminette 2017

I also encountered blends made with Vidal Blanc and Traminette, both hybrid grapes.

Paradise Springs Winery of Clifton, Sommet Blanc 2017

Paradise Springs Sommet Blanc 2017 is a delightful white wine blend of 43% Vidal Blanc, 31% Traminette, and 26% Riesling.

4. Norton
Norton has been derived from the native grape variety Vitis aestivalis. Given this red grape does well in Virginia, I was not surprised to find it on the wine tasting menu.

The Winery at Bull Run, Norton 2017

This Norton wine caught my attention. After all, this well-known black-colored grape variety was first cultivated in Richmond, Virginia. Norton has shown consistent potential as a red wine. The grape grows happily in the Midwest and is one of the most important wine grapes in Missouri (MO is home to the first AVA in America). Norton varietal wines has been described as having high acid with light tannin and big fruity flavors of black cherries, chocolate, vanilla and earth.

One of the first times I was introduced to Norton was at a 2018 Wine Bloggers Conference in Santa Rosa.

Norton is also used a blend, as I discovered at Virginia's Effinham winery.

Effingham, Fermented Adult Beverage 2016

The back label of this Effingham, Fermented Adult Beverage 2016 caught my attention. Yes, it was the reference to Norton as being one of the grapes used in the blend that really caught my attention.

5. Black Spanish (Lenoir) Grape

In his own vineyard in Texas Hill Country Harold grows a grape variety known as Black Spanish. By mid-July the Black Spanish grapevines in Harold's Vineyard were already undergoing verasion. In some articles this black skinned grape variety is described as a Vitis aestivalis species. A recent research study cited in Wikipedia makes another claim:

The American wild grapevine parent of Black Spanish (a.k.a. Jacquez) is Vitis berlandieri and not Vitis aestivalis. This hybridization is not known to have been purposeful, and may have occurred naturally, as was the case with many of the early American grape cultivars. Riaz et al. (2019) have now published the genetic profile of the Jacquez grapevine as follows (percentages): V. vinifera: 69% V. berlandieri: 21% V. rupestris: 7% V. riparia: 3%.

Black Spanish grapes have presented challenges for winemakers. This grape has been an ongoing challenge for Harold to turn into a delicious tasting wine. He is the first to admit that he recognizes the strengths and weaknesses of working with this grape variety.

Black Spanish is a teinturier grape, which in French means to dye or stain. In this case the grape has both dark flesh and dark colored juice. The strengths of this grape variety is that it does well in the hot, and often humid climate of Texas. On the plus side, the Black Spanish grapevine is resistant to Pierce's disease, a deadly disease, that has caused significant losses in Texas vineyards where the pathogen is endemic. Wine-searcher notes that Black Spanish is commonly made into musky, weighty red wines, or fortified wines. Sure working with the Black Spanish grape poses challenges for making a great wine. It does however, present ample opportunities for the discussion of problem solving strategies, and continued explorations.

Two More North American Examples
Earlier travels to the Finger Lakes, New York, and Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada were amongst my first introductions to the use of hybrid grapes.

Cayuga White
The Finger Lakes, a cold climate wine growing region, is home to over 100 wineries that produce wines from Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, as well as French-American and native grape varieties. Cayuga White, my next hybrid example comes from Cayuga Lake area.

The Cayuga Lake American Viticultural Area (AVA) was established in 1988, as a sub-region within the Finger Lakes AVA established in 1982. Amongst this sub-region's best known wines are Sparkling Wines, Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Ice Wine; as well wines made from French-American and Native American grape varietals. For example you will also find grapes, such the Cayuga grape that was bred specifically for this region by Cornell University. The Cayuga White is a wine grape developed from crosses of the hybrids Schuyler and Seyval Blanc.

Cabernet Libre

When I visited Enrico Winery on Vancouver Island I tasted 2010 Cabernet Libre, which was a delightful wine to discover.

While at Enrico's I took the time to visit the vineyards. In fact it was exciting to check out the Cabernet Libre grapes

While this British Columbia example is an hybrid it is not native to North America. This hybrid grape developed by Valentin Blattner in Switzerland to be fungal resistant, is now being grown Canada’s cool, wet coasts (British Columbia and Nova Scotia). It is however, a good example of the use of hybrid grapes to overcome climatic challenges.

The above North American examples from Virginia, Texas, Finger Lakes, and British Columbia illustrate the increasing use of hybrid grapes in winemaking. An article by Laura Burgess in Vinepair speculates on the future of wine made with hybrid grapes. Another Article by Peter Weltman describes a pioneering group of winemakers working with hybrid grapes. Lauren Mowey's article on Saving America's Indigenous Wine Grapes certainly suggests to me that there is a future for American Heritage grapes. A Smithsonian article by Kevin Begos reports on the research quest for the first great American grape.

I love learning about new wines, and especially those wines that create intrigue, or surprise. Given their uniqueness these wines are getting attention. During my wine travels I have observed a growing interest in wines made with native grape varieties in North America and Europe. Now is the time (1) to explore the growing interest in native and hybrid grapes, and (2) to address the pending impact of climate change on wine making. Hence we need to be open to be grape-fully surprised. I invite you to join me in my wine country travels in search of those surprises at Spaswinefood.

Sharon

September 2021

Note: Recently, I have begun to explore Croatia's indigenous grape varieties. For sure Plavac Mali tops the list. Amanda Barnes notes that Croatia, with more than 140 indigenous grape varieties, and a wide range of climatic conditions, provides a diverse palette of flavors for wine lovers to explore.

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Tuesday, April 27, 2021

Romancing those unique grape varieties: Vignettes from wine country travels around the world

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