Bulgarian wine country travels leads to unique wine finds

Maybe you have heard about Bulgarian wines? If not, are you curious to learn more, then I invite you to explore with me. You will be amazed! Bulgarian winemaking, with its modern state of art wineries, produces high quality wines from indigenous grape varieties like Mavrud, Melnik, Rubin, Gamza, Dimyat, and Red Misket (Misket Cherven). In addition, international grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc are also widely planted. During my Bulgarian wine travels I have enjoyed, not only getting to known its wine regions, but also the wines produced from its indigenous grape varieties. While some wine drinkers are content to stay within their comfort zone, now is a time to explore those unique wines. Throughout the wine regions of the world there is a growing interest in unique local grape varieties. I invite you on a journey into the unique wine world of Bulgaria.

Château Burgozone, Danube Plain, Bulgaria © Spaswinefood

Welcome to Bulgaria's Wine World

Bulgarian wines are indeed a well kept secret! It is a country with a long tradition of winemaking. Wines from Ancient Thrace date back six thousands years. Cult of the god of wine “Dionysus” actually originated in Thrace. Thrace, an important geographical and historical region in Southeast Europe, is split among Bulgaria, Greece, and Turkey. The region is bounded by the Balkan Mountains to the north, the Aegean Sea to the south, and the Black Sea to the east. It includes southeastern Bulgaria (Northern Thrace), northeastern Greece (Western Thrace), and the European part of Turkey (East Thrace).  

In the 1980's Bulgaria was one of the largest wine producers in the world. Following the collapse of communism wine production declined. As state run wineries were privatized and new wineries were established the rebirth of modern Bulgarian wine making began. These days Bulgaria's wine industry is buzzing with excitement. Now is the time to discover Bulgaria's wine regions, and some of its local wines. Since visiting in 2015 and 2017 I have enjoyed getting to know Bulgarian wines, the New Wines of Ancient Thrace. This post I will begin with an overview of the wine regions, followed by descriptions of its indigenous grape varieties.

Bulgaria's Wine Regions

Bulgaria's success is due to its vineyards sharing some of the same soil characteristics and latitude of famous wine growing regions in Bordeaux, the South of France, and Central Italy. Bulgaria has five wine regions, each with its specific terroir and climatic conditions, which are suitable for high quality winemaking. 

1. Thracian Lowland (Thracian Valley)

The wine region includes the central part of the lowland, as well as parts of the Sakar Mountain. The area is characterized by a temperate continental climate and a favorable distribution of precipitation. Some of the most typical wines of this region include Mavrud, Rubin, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pamid. Bulgaria's Thracian Lowlands was listed by Wine Enthusiasts as one of the best wine destinations for 2017. My 2017 visit here included stops at Alexandra Estate and Villa Yustina.

1.1 Alexandra Estate's Rakitnitsa Vineyard, is a perfect setting for a vineyard lunch and a great introduction to Alexandra Estate wines.

A Vineyard Lunch, Alexandra Estate © Spaswinefood

Alexandra Estate began in 2012 with the purchase of 200 acres of prime vineyards (Oreshets Vineyard). Then in 2013 100 more acres (Rakitnitsa Vineyard) was added. In 2014 they began the establishment of a winery in Rakitnitsa, with design plans for a second winery in Oreshets village, Harmanli. What distinguishes Alexandra Estate wines is that they follow organic and biodynamic farming methods.

Alexandra Estate © Spaswinefood

The Rakitnitsa Vineyard sits on a hill overlooking the surrounding countryside, with village in the distance.

View from Alexandra Estate Vineyard © Spaswinefood

1.2 Villa Yustina, Ustina, 26 km from Plovdiv is located in one of the top up and coming wine regions in the world. This Central Thracian Lowlands winery is focused on the development of enotourism and the production of quality wines. It was indeed a pleasure for Spaswinefood to visit Villa Yustina in 2015 and 2017. What follows are some Villa Yustina wine moments.

Dreaming of a Villa Yustina © Spaswinefood

This Thracian Lowlands Wine Region winery was founded in 2006. Their Gorkata Vineyards in the northern foothills of the Rhodope Mountains are within the Thracian Valley PGI (Protected Geographical Indication). The grape varieties grown in their vineyard includes: Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Traminer, Aligote, Semillion, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. They also grow indigenous grape varieties, such as Mavrud and Rubin.

Krassimira Kodukova,Villa Yustina © Spaswinefood

When we arrived at Villa Yustina in 2017 we were greeted by Enologist Krassimira Kodukova. She took us on a brief tour of the winery before tasting the wines. Our tour included a quick stop at the tanks, and viewing the barrel room, the bottling area and the wine library. Villa Yustina is a very modern winery, equipped with the latest in wine technology.  All in all, the very quick walk through was well worth getting aquatinted with the winery’s operations.

2. Rose Valley (Valley of Roses)

The region is located south of the Balkan Mountains (Stara Planina) and produces dry wines (predominantly white ones). Rose valley is the birthplace of Red Misket (Misket Cherven). It is a white variety grape, which produces white wine, but has a pinkish skin color, slightly aromatic Muscat type of grape, which produces exclusively dry wine. Among the international grape varieties grown in this area are Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling.

In 2015 I visited Chateau Copsa, a wine chateau, just 60 km. from Plovdiv. Chateau Copsa is located in Bulgaria's Rose Valley Wine Region. The Rose Valley is the number one producer of rose oil in the world, plus wine is one of the valley's main industries. Moreover, the area is also known as the Valley of the Thracian Kings because of the tombs and other treasures found there. This mysterious society worshipped wine. There have been many changes in the wine world since then.

Sunrise, Chateau Copsa © Spaswinefood

Rose Valley's Chateau Copsa is part of the rebirth of wine making in Bulgaria. This wine region, South of the Balkans has two sub-regions east and west. The Rose Valley Wine Region is known for its dry and off-dry white wines, and to a less extent red wines. The most popular wines include Muscatel, Riesling, Rkatsiteli, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Note: Rkatsiteli, a pale skinned white grape, is mostly planted throughout Georgia and surrounding Eastern European countries such as Bulgaria, Romania, Moldova, Ukraine, and even Russia (at one point it accounted for 18% of all Soviet wine). 

Autumn Day, Karlovo, Bulgaria © Spaswinefood

Enroute to Chateau Copsa we made a short stop in the small town Karlovo. Karlovo in Plovdiv Province is a picturesque town of historical significance. Part of this historical significance is that the first Thracian capital was located near here.  It was a relaxing, pleasant sunny afternoon, just perfect for a walk through the center of Karlovo. It was warm and leaves were beginning to change, kittens were playing near an old church. Absolutely perfect for a stroll through town. After our walk we continued onto Chateau Copsa, a perfect wine country retreat.

We arrived mid-afternoon at Chateau Copsa, a family owned winery estate. Chateau Copsa sits on a small hill overlooking the Village of Moskovets. Built in 2005 the chateau's architecture is in the style of castle from the early Middle Ages. During our wine country retreat at Chateau Copsa I got a glimpse into enotourism in the Rose Valley.

Chateau Copsa, Rose Valley © Spaswinefood

Our stay began with a tour of the castle and the wine cellar. Next, we checked into our accommodations in the Chateau Copsa Complex. 

3. Danube Plain 

This region encompasses the south banks of the Danube River and is characterized by temperate continental climate, hot summer and sunny days. Typically cultivated vines in this region are Merlot, Pamid, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamza, as well as Muscat Ottonel. June 2017 I visited Château Burgozone. 

A Château Burgozone Welcome

Often when you arrive at a winery there is a welcoming drink waiting. However, being offered bread upon arrival at Château Burgozone was so very special. It is a Bulgarian tradition to welcome guests with bread. Château Burgozone, a family owned, boutique winery is perched on the southern banks of the Danube River, overlooking Esperanto Island. The winery takes its name from the Roman fortress, which was once located at the border of the wine estate. The fortress provided protection for the Roman Empire from invasions coming from the north. Today Château Burgozone welcomes its invaders with bread and wine.

A Château Burgozone Welcome © Spaswinefood

It was a beautiful spring day when we visited Château Burgozone, Leskovets, near the town of Oryahovo. Yes, it was a long bus trip from Sofia (180 km). We passed through beautiful mountain landscape, and lowland fields before reaching the Danube River plains. Before leaving Sofia, this Spaswinefood enthusiast knew I was going to Château Burgozone, which won The Golden Winery of Bulgaria in 2016. However, what I gained from the visit is that Château Burgozone has an amazing sense of place.

Château Burgozone Estate, Danube Plain

Château Burgozone, Danube Plain © Spaswinefood

Château Burgozone is located in the Danube Plain Wine Region. The Danube Plain is one of the most important wine regions in Bulgaria, with its vineyards accounting for 30% of vineyard production. Historically wine production in the region has always been important, and has survived many challenges. In fact, even during the Ottoman times, many villages were granted special statutes to allow wine production and selling.

Château Burgozone Estate Vineyard, Danube Plain © Spaswinefood

Château Burgozone’s wine estate has geographic coordinates and ecological conditions similar to Tuscany, Côtes du Rhône and Bordeaux, those world-famous European wine-producing regions. The Danube Plain is known for its fresh varietal white wines and rich red wines. The best-known grape varieties from this area include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Muscat and Gamza. The main grape varieties grown at Château Burgozone include: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Marcela, Merlot, Egiodola, Gamza, and Tamjanka.

Danube River © Spaswinefood

4. Black Sea Region

Influenced by the Black Sea, this region is characterized by mild autumn, which makes it suitable for the cultivation of white wines with strong concentration of sugar. Dimyat, Muscat Ottonel and Sauvignon Blanc are among the most commonly cultivated vines here. Amongst the red wines the star is Pinot Noir. While I have tasted wines from here I have yet to visit this region.

5. Struma River Valley

This region includes the valley of the River Struma and is part of the historical Region of Macedonia. The climate typical of this region is Mediterranean with mild, rainy winter and hot summer. This wine region situated between the Pirin Mountains and the Struma River. It is a small but a very significant wine region in Bulgaria. The region’s significance is in part due to the indigenous grape Shiroka Melnishka Loza (Broadleaf Melnik) that is found in this area, near the Greek border. Typical grape varieties, which are commonly cultivated in this region, include Melnik, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In 2015 and 2017I visited many wineries in this region. I will highlight two wineries known for producing wines from indigenous grapes.

5.1 Villa Melnik 

Villa Melnik Winery, Harsovo is a boutique family-owned winery. I have toured their vineyards, modern facilities, and underground cave-like cellars a number of times. The winery has the same name as an indigenous grape variety, Melnik found in this wine region. Interestingly, the grape was named after the nearby town of Melnik. It was my 2015 introduction to Struma Valley wines that inspired me to return to Bulgaria to continue my New Wines of Ancient Thrace journey. There is a long tradition of wine making in Bulgaria's Struma River Valley. A revival of wine making in this wine region has resulted in several new, modern wineries, such as Villa Melnik Winery being built. Their wines include international and indigenous varieties (Broadleaf Melnik, Melnik 55, Mavrud). Villa Melnik wine series include Special Wines, Apaulz, Bergulé, Family Tradition, and Young Wines.  During my 2017 visit I was happy to discover that the winery has received many awards for its wines. My most recent wine tastings at Villa Melnik included both international and indigenous varieties (Broadleaf Melnik, Melnik 55, Ruen and Mavrud). 

5.2 Sintica Winery

In 2015, as we headed back to Sofia, Bulgaria from the Struma Valley, we made one last stop at the Sintica Winery in Sandanski. From a wine history perspective this stop was indeed an interesting visit. The winery is located on what once was the site of an Experimental Agricultural Centre in Southwestern Bulgaria. In the late 70's it was renamed Complex Experimental Station (CES). CES became known as a botanical site of rare and exotic plants, and an experimental vineyard. Moreover, it established a reputation for the grape hybrids and the wines produced there. After democratization CES faded into obscurity. In 2006-07 three wine enthusiasts developed a private wine cellar on the site, 2008 was their first year of wine production. It was exciting to visit a winery so rooted in wine history.

Views onto the Botanical Garden from Sintica Winery © Spaswinefood

Sintica Winery, Sandanski takes its name from an old Thracian tribe in the region. Old archaeological ruins have been found in the nearby mountains from this period. The former state run experimental centre is where the unique grape varieties of Melnik 55 (Early Melnik), Melnishki Rubin, Melnik Jubilee 1300, Melnik 82, Sandanski Misket and others were created. 

Sintica Winery Wines © Spaswinefood

It was this facility that created Melnik 55, which Sintica Winery still produces as a wine. Today the winery's portfolio includes mainly international  varieties. Their focus is on producing premium quality wines.  

Grape Varieties Unique to Bulgaria

Throughout the wine regions of the world there is a growing interest in unique local varieties. I invite you to begin a journey into Bulgaria's unique wine world.

Mavrud

Considered to date back to Ancient Thrace times, Mavrud is a red wine grape, which for centuries has been exclusively grown in the region of the ancient Filippopolis, north of the Rhodoppe Mountains.   Mavrud comes from the Greek word (mavro) meaning black. The wine made from this grape has a dark ruby color. This variety is normally used for making dark wines with deep color and soft taste. It has been described as having high tannins and excellent acidity. On the palate it tends to be spicy, with stewed fruit and herbal flavors. Its cultivation is difficult and requires special dedication. 

However, the unique quality of the wine made of Mavrud is worth the effort!

 Edoardo Miroglio, Elenova Mavrud 2013 © Spaswinefood

This  Edoardo Miroglio wine is from the Thrace Region.

 I have also tasted some barrel samples of Mavrud at Villa Melnik. 

Villa Melnik, Mavrud 2014 (Barrel Sample) © Spaswinefood

Melnik

The Melnik is a red grape variety, grown in the region of the Struma valley, which is characterized with Mediterranean climate. According to a legend, the wine made of Melnik vine was among the favourite wines of Winston Churchill. This variety can produce increasingly powerful wines with rich texture, exotic perfume and soft tannin. This particular wine does well in oak. Wines produced from these grapes have been compared to Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines. Melnik two variations include:

1. Shiroka Melnishka Loza (Broadleaf Melnik), a Bulgarian red grape variety found near Melnik in the Struma River Valley. 

2. Melnik 55 (Early Melnik), a hybrid Bulgarian grape developed because the Broadleaf Melnik grape often ripens late when the weather is cold and damp. The hybrid was produced using Valdiguié pollen.

Wines made from Melnik grapes are highly valued for its full-bodied flavor, ruby-red color, and its aging potential.

Sintica Winery, the former state run experimental centre is where the unique grape varieties of Melnik 55 (Early Melnik), Melnishki Rubin, Melnik Jubilee 1300, Melnik 82, Sandanski Misket and others were created. The winery still produces Melnik 55, which I got to taste during a 2015 visit. 

Explosion Melnik 55 Single Vineyard 2008 © Spaswinefood

Explosion Melnik 55 Single Vineyard 2008 (back label) © Spaswinefood

Villa Melnik produces an interesting blend of Melnik (Villa Melnik, Bergulé Melnik & Pinot Noir 2014).

Villa Melnik, Bergulé Melnik & Pinot Noir 2014 © Spaswinefood

From their Apaulz series I tasted their Melnik 55 and Cabernet Sauvignon. I also tasted some barrel samples. There was also a Broadleaf Melnik 2015.

Villa Melnik, Broadleaf Melnik 2015 (Barrel Sample) © Spaswinefood

I was very impressed by the overall quality of Villa Melnik red wines. I particularly liked their Melnik 55, and the red wine blends with the indigenous grape varieties. YES, the barrel samples were amazing. 

Gamza

Cultivated since ancient times, the grape variety of Gamza, also known as “Kadarka”in many Balkan countries, is best grown in the Danube region. It produces vivid red wines with pleasant fruit taste and distinct freshness. This variety requires very specific climate conditions, which is why it is predominantly cultivated in the region of the Danube valley. During my wine travels in Hungary and Romania I have encountered Kardarka. 

Bulgarian Gamza © Spaswinefood

Dimyat

Known for its aromatic grapes, Dimyat has been grown for centuries in the Black Sea region. Dimyat wines have a sweet taste, strong aroma and light color. The grapes of Dimyat ripen in late September. This grape variety is the most popular one in the Black Sea Region.

Bulgarian Dimyat ©Spaswinefood

Dimyat is known to produce fresh, tasty wines. It can also be matured in oak. Recent DNA suggests it to be a crossing of Gouais Blanc and another unknown grape variety.

Pamid

This ancient pink-skinned grape variety, is extensively planted in eastern Europe, and native to Bulgaria. According to the legends, ancient Thracians have been very keen consumers of Pamid wines, characterized with pleasant light and fruit taste. While it has been widely cultivated by Thracians over a number of centuries, nowadays it continues to be grown specifically in the region of the Thracian valley.  It produces medium-sized bunches of small berries. They have thin skins, which helps to explain the variety's lack of tannins, color and flavor concentration. Pamid grapes reach good sugar levels, but lack acidity, hence the wines are best drunk young before they become unbalanced. Pamid is typically used in the production of light red wine designed for early consumption. These wines might be considered the Bulgarian version of Beaujolais wines. It can also made into blends, and rosé wines with a hint of residual sugar. Wines made from this variety are popular in domestic markets, with very limited demand for export. Do be surprised if its demand picks up in the future. Popular food pairings with Pamid include meatballs, soba-noodle salad with scallions, and cured meats.

Rubin

It is a successful cross between Syrah and Nebbiolo. A dark blue-colored wine grape variety, Rubin is the mostly planted in the Thracian valley region. Rubin vines, planted along the Thracian Valley and bordered by the Strandzha Mountains, tend to produce wines with explicitly rich taste and color. If you get the opportunity to taste them. Rubin is also used in the production of rosé wine.

Bulgarian Rubin Rosé © Spaswinefood

Ruen

Ruen, an almost extinct cross between Melnik (Broad Leaved Melnik Vine) and Cabernet Sauvignon, which was created in Pleven, Bulgaria in 1951, and officially released in 1964. Just like the Rubin grape variety, Ruen is only cultivated in the Struma River Valley. It is an expressive wine that has described as having flavors of black cherry, liquorice, cigar and nuts.

Villa Melnik, Ruen 2015 © Spaswinefood

Ruen, a cross between Shiroka Melnishka Loza (Broadleaf Melnik) and Cabernet Sauvignon, is an inviting wine. 

Villa Melnik Estate Vineyard, Struma Valley © Spaswinefood

Red Misket

Red Misket (Misket Cherven), an old local variety, is a white wine grape, with a pinkish skin color. The grapes are small and have pinkish-red to violet color. The wine is typically dry, straw-yellow in color, and often has some green nuance.

Early Morning, Chateau Copsa Vineyards, Rose Valley © Spaswinefood

Throughout the wine regions of the world there is a growing interest in unique local grape varieties. I invite you to begin your journey into that unique wine world of Bulgaria, the New Wines of Ancient Thrace. Perhaps it is time you try Mavrud, Melnik, Rubin or Gamza? I would highly recommend that you take the opportunity to try Bulgarian wines made with native wine grapes. Just be open to change, and you might fall in love with these wines. I invite you to check out my travels in Bulgaria and elsewhere at Spaswinefood. 

Sharon

Fall 2015 & Spring 2017

Sofia, Bulgaria

© Spaswinefood

Yellow Brick Road, Sofia © Spaswinefood

Royal Palace, Sofia © Spaswinefood

Exploring Old Plovdiv, Bulgaria © Spaswinefood

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