Georgia, one of the oldest producing wine regions in the world, is rich in tradition. However, it is not every day that you get an opportunity to experience the rich wine and food traditions of a unique wine producing country, like Georgia. Given its uniqueness Georgia's wine is getting attention, as noted by #winelover Luiz Alberto (Lotus Vini Inc.). During a recent #EWBC post-conference trip to Georgia sponsored by the Georgian Wine Association, Spaswinefood had the opportunity to experience first hand the wonderful Georgian hospitality centered around wine making and cuisine.
Discovering Qvevri Wine Making
Qvevri (kvevri) wine making is a traditional wine making process used in Georgia. What is unique to this wine making process is the use of a large earthenware vessel (qvevri) in which the wine is made. Basically this natural wine making process involves the use of large clay pots, lined with beeswax that is buried in the ground (as seen in this YouTube video).
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| Georgian hospitality at Shumi © Spaswinefood |
Qvevri (kvevri) wine making is a traditional wine making process used in Georgia. What is unique to this wine making process is the use of a large earthenware vessel (qvevri) in which the wine is made. Basically this natural wine making process involves the use of large clay pots, lined with beeswax that is buried in the ground (as seen in this YouTube video).
Our first stop in Tbilisi was the Georgian National Museum where we toured the museum. One of the visit highlights for me was seeing a display of historical qvevris. Throughout our visit to Georgia we saw how qvevris are used in today's wine production.
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| Qvevri display at Georgian National Museum, Tbilisi © Spaswinefood |
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| Display of qvevris at Alaverdi Monastry© Spaswinefood |
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| Display of qvevris at Alaverdi Monastry © Spaswinefood |
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| Today's qvevri wine making at Alaverdi Monastry © Spaswinefood |
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| Qvevri wine making at Schuchmann Wines © Spaswinefood |
Apparently, there is a difference in opinion as to whether wine production originated in Georgia, Turkey or Armenia. In any event, DNA analysis shows all European grape varieties have their origin in Turkey, Georgia or Armenia. Alice Feiring's article describes Georgian wine making as wine of the ancients. This is certainly true for Georgia's qvevri wine making tradition. Qvevri wine making dates back to 4000BC, with viticulture in Georgia dating back to 6000BC. Qvevris are widely use today in Georgian wine making alongside modern wine making techniques.
Experiencing a Georgian Feast or Supra
Prior to visiting Georgia my own experience, beyond research, was limited to tasting Georgian wines at the Grand Terroir Tasting Session at EWBC in Izmir, Turkey. However, what I discovered first hand in Georgia was not only qvevris wine making but the rich tradition of the Georgian feast, or supra. Georgians truly know how to celebrate with wine and food. In fact, it is hard to find the words to describe the experience. It will take me some time to process the rich, intense experience that I had in Georgia.
While in Georgia we experienced a number of Georgian feasts that involved food and wine. Georgian cuisine has been described as being influenced by Middle Eastern and European traditions. It has been said that Georgian food and wine are best observed at a feast or supra (a traditional banquet feast). Part of the Georgian tradition is to have a toastmaster at such gatherings. Usually a toast is accompanied by a song or verse. Needless to say we got to meet some amazing people and drink some amazing wines produced in qvevri and non-qvevri styles. Some of the highlights included:
Lunch at Laursab's Azarpesha Restaurant
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| Lunch at Laursab's Restaurant © Spaswinefood |
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| Laursab toasted and sang during lunch © Spaswinefood |
Our first lunch in Georgia was at the Azarpesha Restaurant. Over lunch we were introduced to the amazing Georgian tradition of toasting by Laursab.
Wine tasting and lunch at Chateau Mukhrani
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| Chateau Mukhrani © Spaswinefood |
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| Chateau Mukhrani Saperavi 2008 © Spaswinefood |
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| Chateau Mukhrani Reserve Du Prince 2007 © Spaswinefood |
Chateau Mukhrani is presently being rebuilt. While at Chateau Mukhrani we tasted some impressive wines during lunch. Amongst the wines I tasted Chateau Mukhrani's Saperavi 2008 and Reserve Du Prince 2007 were excellent (see Peter Wood's tasting notes on some Chateau Mukhrani's wines). Chateau Mukhrani is a winery with a great future.
Sparkling Wine Tasting at Bagrationi
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| Bagrationi Sparkling Wine © Spaswinefood |
During our visit to Bagrationi Winery we tasted a variety of sparkling wines. Bagrationi has been producing wines since 1882.
Tasting Cognac Georgian Style
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| Food offerings to go along with Sarajishvili Cognac © Spaswinefood |
We visited the Sarajishvili Winery known for its brandy production. After an introduction explaining the history of the winery we were treated to a barrel sample. This was followed by a Sarajishvili Cognac tasting. The cognac tasting was accompanied by an amazing offering of treats.
Lunch Time Feast at Shumi
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| A Georgian Welcome at Shumi © Spaswinefood |
There was no end to the fabulous Georgian cuisine that we were introduced to while in Georgia. At Shumi Wine Company in Tsinandali, Telavi region, Georgia we had lunch, sampled wines and listened to Georgian traditional polyphonic songs.
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| Getting to taste wine right out of the qvevri © Spaswinefood |
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| Dinner at Chateau Mere © Spaswinefood |
Our first night at Chateau Mere we sampled more wine with dinner. Of course these was entertainment to go along with the feasting. It was a delightful evening.
Traditional Dinner at Tsinandali Palace
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| The goodbye feast at Tsinandali Palace © Spaswinefood |
The traditional dinner at Tsinandali Palace is what I would describe as a "goodbye feast". Again there was wine, food and entertainment.
Spaswinefood's trip to Georgia was not only a fabulous opportunity to explore some of its wine regions but a discovery Georgian hospitality. An article by Harilan Wine and Spirits describes the wine regions of Georgia. During our trip we visited some of the wineries in the Kartli and Kakheti regions. A visit to Georgia is a must for hard-core wine enthusiasts. The above wine and food highlights are but a brief overview of the awesome hospitality that I experienced in Georgia. I look forward to writing about these Georgian experiences at Spaswinefood.
Sharon
November 2012
Tbilisi, Georgia
© Spaswinefood
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