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Thursday, August 23, 2018

Reims, the gateway to Champagne wine country

Reims is the first place that comes to mind when I think of Champagne. Given there are many Champagne houses headquartered there, it is popular for wine tastings and tours. Beneath the city there are caves where the Champagne is aged. These caves are carved into the chalk bedrock, with some of the caves dating back to Roman times. Our wine country explorations began in Reims. Today, the gateway to Champagne, is a modern French city, with world famous Champagne cellars, and a rich history. The city, where the French Kings were crowned, is surprisingly a very relaxing place to visit.
Reims Cathedral, Reims © Spaswinefood
Reims takes its name from the Remi tribe who founded the city around 80 BC. It served as their capital until the Romans invaded the area 58-51 BC. They then aligned themselves with the Romans. Christianity became established in the area by 260. By the 10th century Reims became a center for intellectual culture. The Roman Catholic Church and the Kings of France were amongst the influential powers in shaping Reims's history. One of its present academic institutions URCA (University of Reims Champagne-Ardennel) was founded in 1548. Both world wars impacted the city. The history of Champagne production in this area is quite intriguing, and detailed. Obviously while in Reims Spaswinefood gained many insights during visits to Champagne houses, wine bars, restaurants, historical sites, and nearby vineyards and villages.

Reims Champagne Houses
There many Champagne houses here to visit. One of the first places we stopped was Taittinger, where I met up with a #winelover friend.
Tasting Champagne at Taittinger © Spaswinefood

Champagne Taittinger is a showcase for one of the region’s most respected viticultural names. They offer hour-long tours, which includes a visit to their cellars, followed a tasting session.
Champagne Taittinger © Spaswinefood
My recommendation is, if you visit Taittinger that you pop into the nearby Abbey of Saint-Remi, to get a glimpse of the rich history of this wine region.
Abbey of Saint-Remi © Spaswinefood
Visitors will soon discover that combining church history and the history of wine wine making here is a good combination. There is a lot of overlap.
Visiting Champagne Taittinger © Spaswinefood
Wine Bars
Reims wine bars are a must. From all reports Au Bon Manger tops the list. I would suggest making a reservation well in advance to make sure you get a table.
Au Bon Manger © Spaswinefood
We did manage to get a table at Le Wine Bar by Le Vintage.
Le Wine Bar, Reims © Spaswinefood

Throughout our travels, beyond discovering Champagne types, my focus was primarily on tasting Vintage Champagne, Growers Champagne, and those Champagnes made with 100% Pinot Meunier, one of the three grapes (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier), used in the making of Champagne. When we dropped by Le Wine Bar I order a bottle of Pinot Meunier, a still wine, to help me develop an understanding of this grape variety's characteristics. 
Pinot Meunier Time, Le Wine Bar © Spaswinefood
To go along with Pinot Meunier we ordered a cheese board. It is impossible to beat French cheese.
Cheese Board, Le Wine Bar © Spaswinefood
Le Wine Bar © Spaswinefood
Of course you will never runout of Champagne options in Reims.
Champagne Bar © Spaswinefood
Restaurants
We ate at a number of local restaurants, of which the historic Cafe de Palais, was definitely a favorite.
Cafe de Palais © Spaswinefood
Lunch, Cafe de Palais © Spaswinefood
If you have time drop by nearby Maison Fossier, founded in 1756, for some biscuits roses. The locals enjoy them with Champagne. Maison Fossier is the mother company of Biscuit Rose de Reims.
Maison Fossier © Spaswinefood
Our first day in town we ate lunch at a l'ere du temps, a crepery.
A l'ere du temps © Spaswinefood
For lunch I enjoyed a rosé wine with a savory crepe.
Savory Crepe, A l'ere du temps © Spaswinefood
For dinner one evening, after looking for a nearby restaurant we decided on, which was about 10-15 minute walk from our hotel.
L'alambic, Reims © Spaswinefood
L'alambic © Spaswinefood
We soon discovered that it was quite a popular spot; so we could not dine in the cave, as planned.
Dining, L'alambic Cave © Spaswinefood
We did however get a table in the upstairs dining room.
Dining Room, L'alambic © Spaswinefood
We arrived near sunset. Given the timing light flooded the room, it was a good time for taking photos.
Sunset at L'alambic © Spaswinefood
For dinner that evening some of the dishes we selected, included:
Salad, L'alambic © Spaswinefood
Aspargus, L'alambic © Spaswinefood
We easily fill into ordering a rosé champagne.
Champagne Bonnet Crinque © Spaswinefood
While exploring wine options near city center, we do not forget to checkout some of the historic sights (Cryptoporticus), and City Hall.
Cryptoporticus, Reims © Spaswinefood
Reims City Hall (Hotel de Ville) © Spaswinefood
History and Architectural Sights
If you are looking for further historical and architectural insights into Reims, then the Reims Cathedral (Notre Dame of Reims) is an absolute must while in town.
Portal onto Reims Cathedral © Spaswinefood
You can not help but be impressed by its Gothic architecture. It is one of Europe's most stunning churches.
Visiting Reims Cathedral © Spaswinefood

After 987, all the French Kings were crowned at Reims Cathedral, except Hugh Capet, Robert II, Louis VI, John I, Henry IV and Louis XVIII.
Window onto History, Reims Cathedral © Spaswinefood
With doubt you will find plenty to see and do in Reims.
Reims, Gateway to Champagne © Spaswinefood
Reims is indeed the gateway to Champagne.
 
Villages, Vineyards and More
During our four day stay in Reims we also explored nearby villages and vineyards of Champagne wine country. 
Vrigny Vineyards, Champagne-Ardenne © Spaswinefood
We did tastings at local wineries, and ate lunches in the villages. We explored both large Champagne houses and small producers. We could not resist checking out the local market day in Reims at the Porte Marne.
Market Day, Porte Marne © Spaswinefood
When your tour Champagne in the springtime, as we did, you can not help but feel inspired. While in Reims we stayed at Hotel Au Tambour, a small hotel about a 15 minute walk from city center.
Hotel Au Tambour, Reims © Spaswinefood
Reims is indeed the gateway to Champagne wine country. After Reims we traveled onto Epernay for more vine-filled explorationsAt the end of a most wonderful week exploring the Champagne wine region, our next stop was the Mosel Valley for the 3rd Annual #Winelover Riesling Marathon. Later, we would return our car rental to Reims, and continue onto Paris. Yes, Champagne wine country is classy, both the region and its wines. We would especially like to thank Claire Sarazin for being a wonderful host, not only during our visit to Taittinger, but also offering advice on things to do and see in Champagne wine country. I invite you to join me in my wine country travels in France and elsewhere at Spaswinefood.


Sharon
Reims, France
May 2018
© Spaswinefood
Follow the Signs, Reims © Spaswinefood

Sideways Moments in Champagne © Spaswinefood
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